|This is Dipel DF or dry flowable and intended to be|
mixed with water, not applied as a dust. Please read
the label before applying any pesticide.
Friday, June 15, 2012
|Elm leaf beetle damage|
|Wetwood or slime flux comig from|
|An electronic bird scaring device|
|Morado Gigante garlic|
Remember that in our climate, the desert Southwest, Mojave Desert, plant garlic in late September to the end of October. You can go later and we have and it usually turns out fine but this is the best time. Prepare the soil well with well-rotted organic matter (compost) and use lots of phosphorus (bone meal) in the bed. You can plant both hardneck and softneck varieties. Varieties to include might be Red Toche, Susanville, Polish White, Giant Morado, Tuscan, Red Janice, California Early, and many others. Most will work well here. - Extremehort
|Olives forming on "fruitless" olive|
|Mesquite tree with sap running down|
from a pruning cut
A trick that really works, especially if your space is limited is to buy two or three trees, one each of your favorite type (orange, grapefruit, lime or whatever citrus you like) and then plant the individual plants all in the same hole . . They all stay on their own rootstock and the dominance issue is negated. And, you can pick your favorite type and variety of that type.
If you take the dried pods and put them in a blender and let 'er rip you will break down the pods and the hard seeds (covered in a papery shroud) will float to the top of the mix . . Remove the seeds to plant or toss and use the rest as a sweet, coarse flour . . I use it a lot in cornbread but it can be used in most bread recipes . . . The North American species have more pod matrix and flavor than the South American species . . The one glaring exception is the one South American species Prosopis nigra or Black Mesquite which has, by far the most delicious and plump pods . . They are rarely found in landscapes but I know where a few are and I can sneak some pods from time to time . .Shhhhh, don't tell anyone . .
Monday, June 11, 2012
|One of the hornworms as larva or caterpillar|
|Leafhopper damage to grape leaf|
|Leafhopper damage cropped and enlarged upper surface|
|Cleveland sage picture submitted by reader|
Here is another shot of Cleveland sage
|Readers strawberry plant with damage|
|Vine weevil on readers plants, picture magnified and cropped|
Sunday, June 10, 2012
|Readers pear tree|
|Fireblight in pear|
|Classic fireblight shepardshook and black|
scorched fire symptoms
Chemical treatment is an option for summer patch control but the key is to start early. Appropriate systemic fungicides should be applied beginning when night temperatures remain above 70° F. Using the wrong fungicide or high nitrogen fertilizers may actually aggravate the problem.
Patches of dying plants create doughnut shaped depressions that can grow to two feet across and turn dull tan to reddish brown and give the affected area a pockmarked look. In some cases, an apparently healthy green patch of grass will be completely surrounded by a ring of dead grass creating a “frog-eye” appearance.
- Always apply a balanced N-P-K fertilizer and don’t apply any fertilizer during the June-August stress period.
- Fertilizers should be applied at half rates as needed. You don’t want the turfgrass underfertilized or overfertilized which may add to stress or increase susceptibility.
- Avoid heavy early spring and summer applications of fertilizer high in nitrogen.
- Develop a fall fertilization program supplemented with a half rate summer fertilization program.
- Deep water prior to summer heat to encourage deeper root systems.
- Seed heat tolerant perennial ryegrasses such as Palmer, Prelude and Brightstar.
- Syringe (short applications of water) during the heat of during July and August.
- Core aerate in early fall or mid spring.
- Remove thatch by aeration, vertical mowing or power raking.
- Increase mowing height to 3 inches during the hot summer months. Susceptibility to this disease increases as mowing height decreases.
- Overseed with improved cultivars.
If this is too difficult, look for a product that says it controls Fusarium blight or summer patch and follow the directions for application precisely. The label is the best source of information. It is NOT a bunch of bologna. They want it to work so you will buy it again and recommend it to others.
Remember, nearly all fungicides are PREVENTIVES, not curatives. Fungicides normally protect the plant from infections or further infections unless it states on the label that it has a curative rate.
|This is cherry plum, not from the ornamental tree but the|
same fruit sold as Delite cherry plum
|Purple leaf (ornamental) plum|