Me with a technician at field plots at Balkh University. |
Stand Alone Pages
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Wednesday, May 2, 2012
On Assignment in Afghanistan
Branches With Sharp Thorns Coming From Base of Orange Tree
Q. This year I noticed branches growing from the base of
my orange tree and the branches have sharp thorns on them. Should they be
pruned from the tree?
A. The branches growing from the base of your tree
probably are shoots arising from the rootstock; common name, “suckers”. Let’s
use your orange tree as an example but it could be other citrus as well such as
limes, grapefruit, lemon, etc.
Most
citrus valued for their fruit are grafted to another citrus valued for its
roots. This citrus valued for its roots is called the rootstock. The citrus
plants used for rootstocks are selected for various characteristics but not for
the quality of the fruit they produce. In fact fruit from rootstocks is nearly
always pretty terrible.
The
rootstock may sometimes be more vigorous than the orange tree itself. The
rootstock can send up shoots that, if not removed, may dwarf and overtake the
orange part of the tree. Simply remove these undesirable suckers any time they
appear and as close to the trunk as possible.
They may
sucker from the roots as well. Remove these too by cutting the sucker and the
root with a sharp shovel and pull them from the soil. This eliminates the
possibility that the rootstock will overtake the orange tree. Do not leave any stubs.
These will easily regrow.
Frequently
in our climate tender citrus like some oranges, limes and others are killed
during winter freezes. But because the rootstock part of the tree may be more
cold tolerant it survives, then suckers and takes over.
In a
couple of years the rootstock is the only plant left and the owner wonders why
the fruit is terrible and not anything like the citrus fruit he was expecting.
Orchard Watered with Greywater and Fertilizer Injector
Q. First off I want to thank you for the inspiration and
motivation to get my backyard orchard project off of the ground. I planted 22
bareroot fruit trees this winter, 20 of which have budded out! I am still
hopeful on the remaining 2.
I have
also installed a greywater drip irrigation system using the water from my
laundry, the system I am using waters the whole 20'x30' orchard area rather
than each individual tree. What I am curious about now is if I should utilize
the surge tank in my system to apply any fertilizers or possibly something to
combat the alkalinity of our native soil? I am noticing chlorosis (yellowing) already
on the new trees this spring. Do I need to worry about that now?
A. Congratulations on your mini Orchard. Be careful with
the type of laundry detergent that you are using in combination with your
greywater system. Make sure it is biodegradable and plant friendly.
You
might want to do some checking on the state regulations on the use of greywater
for irrigation. This would be overseen by the Nevada Division of
Environmental Protection and much of that information should be online or a
quick phone call away.
Nevada Division of Environmental Protection Website
Nevada Division of Environmental Protection Website
Using a
fertilizer injection system is very convenient and adequate as long as your
irrigation system is designed and installed well. If your irrigation system
applies water evenly, then the fertilizer will be applied evenly as well. Make
sure you incorporate a 150 mesh screen filter somewhere at the front of the system.
Mesh filter for drip irrigation paired with pressure regulator |
The
advantage of fertilizer injection systems are that they can apply small amounts
of fertilizer continuously through the growing season (through most of August).
It sounds like a fertilizer injector would apply more fertilizer than applying fertilizer
by hand once in the spring but this is not necessarily so.
Applying
small amounts of fertilizer on a regular basis is much more efficient and can
lead to significantly less fertilizer applied if you manage the irrigation system
and very small amounts of fertilizer applied closely.
You do
not need to inject anything to combat alkalinity of the soil. Select acid
forming fertilizers and use organic mulches. If you use organic mulch on the
soil surface it will do a lot to improve the soil and combat alkalinity.
One brand of iron chelate EDDHA |
If you
decide to inject fertilizers into your irrigation system then start the
injection cycle after the water has been delivered to the plants for a few
minutes. Water is not delivered evenly during the first few minutes of the drip
irrigation cycle. Once the drip system is fully pressurized, well-designed drip
systems then apply water evenly.
Stop
injecting fertilizer several minutes before the irrigation system shuts down.
Several minutes of uninjected water will clean out the irrigation system of
fertilizer that might be stuck in the irrigation lines.
Water that
remains in your irrigation system containing fertilizer will lead to the growth
of algae and bacteria in your irrigation lines. Algae and bacteria are major
culprits in plugging your irrigation system if you are using drip or even sprinklers.
Leave a Few Peaches to Enjoy on Young Peach Tree
Q. I don't know how old my peach tree is. I assume it's
really young, like two or three years old because it is small. I am pinching
off the small peach fruits leaving one small fruit every 4-6 inches along the
branch. For this tree, that ends up being one to 2 peaches per branch, giving
me overall maybe 10 peaches on this young tree.
A. Your thinning of the fruit sounds about right for the
age of your tree. There are some people who pull all of the fruit off of a
young tree hoping to get the tree into greater production beginning in its
fourth year of growth.
It
doesn't really matter. I like to have a few fruit from young trees, an
incentive for my labor. It won’t hurt the tree to have it produce fruit early.
If your
tree is really healthy and puts on a lot of new growth this and the following
year then you should increase fruit production 300 to 400% over the next two
years. You should be nearing full production by the fourth or fifth year if you
are watering, fertilizing and pruning adequately.
You will prune your tree in December
or January. Look for my pruning videos on YouTube under the name of
Extremehort. This should help a lot.
Monday, April 30, 2012
Is My Yellow Bells Dead from Winter Cold?
Q. Last year we planted a yellow bells plant. It appears
to have died over winter. Do we need to trim it back to bring it "back to
life", or just be patient and wait.
A. You should have seen it coming to life by now if it
was not damaged heavily by winter cold. They can be cut back hard and they will
come back if they appear dead but just have died back for the winter.
They are
a bit tender and in the wrong spot they will freeze out due to winter cold. If
this was the case you might find a warmer microclimate in the yard and replant
and pick a different plant for that spot.
They can
get ten feet tall and three feet wide just so that you remember to give them
enough room. If it freezes back each year but comes back in the spring it will
never get that big or if it does just keep it cut back during the winter.