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Wednesday, November 21, 2012
This Clover-Looking Weed is Hard to Get Rid Of
Q. I have clover growing at the base of my spike plants. I
pull them, and pull them, and pull them. Do we all just enjoy each other and
smile or is there some way to get rid of them I've split off babies from the
base of the plants and have four separate pots with spikes in them now and they
are about one and a half feet tall now. I cleaned around the roots and put them
in new potting soil, but their "friends" are hanging right in there
with all four plants also. We do have other larger clover growing with our main
clutch of aloe vera and have no idea how to approach that type (and tight)
group without starting a full scale aloe army throughout our garden.
Symbiotic yin and yang or what, Professor?
A. I am not sure what you are calling Spike plants. The
common name, spike plant, usually refers to a house plant called bcdefghi DY'`IY{L8n you may be referring to aloe as a spike plant.
I am also
not sure the plant you're calling clover is really a clover at all. I am
wondering if this is oxalis, a plant whose leaves are very similar to clover in
appearance. But this plant is much more difficult to control or eradicate than
clover. It is also called wood sorrel.
Oxalis or wood sorrel. |
Oxalis can
be spread through seed from the flowers, bulbs from the roots and also by
bulbils. If you are going to control this weed you will need to clean all soil
from your “spike plant” roots thoroughly and sterilize any soil you are using
when you're a replanting these plants.
Clover is
not that difficult to control but oxalis is a terrible weed to control
particularly among nursery plantings and in landscapes in our climate. An easy
way to tell if this is oxalis is to taste a few of the leaves. Clover leaves
will be slightly sweet to the taste. Oxalis leaves contain oxalic acid, the
same chemical in rhubarb, spinach and brussels sprouts and will be sour to the
taste. But my guess is you have oxalis.
Should I Cut Back Bareroot Apricot After Planting and Leafing Out?
Q. I planted several bare root fruit trees about three weeks
ago. They were shipped to me about four
foot tall. I did not want to trim them until I could see some growth. They have started to leaf out except for the
apricot. The apricot is the
one that concerns me. It has no
branches below the 2 ft level, six branches above 2 feet, and no visible growth
yet. Everything else looks good. My question
is will it harm them if I cut them down to the 2-1/2 ft level at this
time. Or, should I leave them alone to
establish themselves, then prune and cut them down to size in the winter when
they are dormant.
A. They all appear like they can handle being cut back
somewhere between your knee or no more than a foot above the knee. Use your
judgement as to the exact location as it should be just above a branch or a
bud.
It would have been better to cut them back before they leafed out.
It would have been better to cut them back before they leafed out.
Limb up
branches at the bottom that are too close to the ground (bend the branch and if
it can touch the ground then eliminate it). On spur producing fruit trees (pear
and apricot) cut the branches back to about 18 inches in length or no closer than
18 inches to the closest spur if any have been produced.
Sap Dripping from Tree Trunk a Common Problem
Q. We love your advice. Please explain and tell us any
info about our trees. We sent you some pictures. I removed the dried area and
flushed with water. We lost large cottonwoods years ago having same condition.
Slime flux or wetwood on a large established tree which is not the readers. |
A. The pictures show a liquid coming directly from the
trunk of the tree. This may be a disease called wetwood or slime flux that
can infect many different types of trees. The liquid coming from this disease
will have a putrified, yeasty smell which quite often attracts flies. In many
cases, the liquid does not seem to be coming from any cut or damage to the
tree. It seems to come directly from the limb or trunk.
This
particular disease is normally not lethal. However, there are some trees where
it seems quite deadly. One of them is Navaho globe willow. In this case it has
been noted that it has killed trees. In any regard, this disease in poplars,
elms, mesquite and other trees is usually not deadly. It is considered more of
a nuisance than anything else.
Check to
see if there is an odor to the liquid. See if flies are attracted to the liquid
on a warm day when flies are present. If this is the case, there is nothing you
can do about the situation but have the tree live with it. There are no
fungicides or other pesticides that will make any changes. Hopefully the tree
will have a long life living with this problem.
Yellowing of Apricot Leaves and Possible Causes and Cures
Q. I have an Apricot tree I planted in January (bareroot
from the farm). It has been doing really
well until a couple of week ago I noticed something was eating some of the
leaves. More recently I have noticed
yellowing of some of the leaves. Any
ideas as to what is causing this and how to remedy the problem? I have attached pictures. Thanks.
A. Photos 2, 3 and 4 looked like a nutrient or watering
problem. The leaf or leaves were light green with some scorching around the
edges. There might also be some wind damage. In photo it looks like a critter
could have been eating the leaves but that is no big deal if it only affects a
few leaves and doesn’t bother the fruit. In the photos 2 – 4 it does appear to
be a nutrient problem.
See how the leaves on the ends of the branch are yellowing more than the older leaves coming from the thicker part of the branch? This is a good indicator it is most likely an iron or irrigation problem. Irrigation, too much, can also mimic iron shortages or actually cause an iron shortage. This is what you need to do. If there is mulch, pull the mulch away from the trunk. If there is no mulch, then pull the soil away from the trunk until you start to see the roots that were in the original container. I am concerned you might be developing collar rot. Planting the tree a little too deep can also cause similar looking problems.
If you are on a watering pattern that is every day, try to get off of it. Go at least every other day or even best every third day in the summer but add enough water to get the water down at least 12 inches into the soil. If it is hard to do this, build a donut around this young tree at least 18 inches from the trunk. Two feet from the trunk is even better.
Any iron spray made for applying iron to the leaves should work fine. However, some plants, in fact many plant leaves will not turn green from an iron spray without multiple applications. So I would make a fresh spray of iron for the leaves about four times and apply the iron on four separate applications a few days apart. Remember to apply it in the cool of the morning.
I would use distilled water or RO water. I would also put a tsp of liquid dish detergent (one with no addatives like scents or lotions) in one gallon of spray mix. Shake it to mix the spray and detergent together but not allow it to foam. Spray immediately. Do not hold it overnight. Make a fresh spray each time you spray. Next January make your normal fertilizer application to the tree and include an iron chelate to the soil that contains EDDHA chelate.
Not a clear picture from the reader but you can see the scorching of the leaves on apricot. |
See how the leaves on the ends of the branch are yellowing more than the older leaves coming from the thicker part of the branch? This is a good indicator it is most likely an iron or irrigation problem. Irrigation, too much, can also mimic iron shortages or actually cause an iron shortage. This is what you need to do. If there is mulch, pull the mulch away from the trunk. If there is no mulch, then pull the soil away from the trunk until you start to see the roots that were in the original container. I am concerned you might be developing collar rot. Planting the tree a little too deep can also cause similar looking problems.
Again not the best picture but it does look like an insect could have taken a chunk out of the leaf but chances are, if there were strong winds recently, it was wind damage. |
If you are on a watering pattern that is every day, try to get off of it. Go at least every other day or even best every third day in the summer but add enough water to get the water down at least 12 inches into the soil. If it is hard to do this, build a donut around this young tree at least 18 inches from the trunk. Two feet from the trunk is even better.
Any iron spray made for applying iron to the leaves should work fine. However, some plants, in fact many plant leaves will not turn green from an iron spray without multiple applications. So I would make a fresh spray of iron for the leaves about four times and apply the iron on four separate applications a few days apart. Remember to apply it in the cool of the morning.
I would use distilled water or RO water. I would also put a tsp of liquid dish detergent (one with no addatives like scents or lotions) in one gallon of spray mix. Shake it to mix the spray and detergent together but not allow it to foam. Spray immediately. Do not hold it overnight. Make a fresh spray each time you spray. Next January make your normal fertilizer application to the tree and include an iron chelate to the soil that contains EDDHA chelate.
Pruning Citrus: How to do it
Q. I have a dwarf lemon tree that is about 14 years old.
It produces plenty of fruit and I keep it relatively small. I trim it in the
winter but have never professionally pruned it. Could you recommend to me a
source on how to properly prune this tree?
A. I don’t know of a source to help guide you in pruning
your citrus tree except the one I wrote and posted below this entry. It was published by the California State Parks; Citrus State Historic Park. I will try to give you
some basic directions but read below for more specifics. Light pruning can
be done anytime but heavier pruning should be done right after harvest.
Light
pruning would include the removal of small branches that are interfering with
growth or causing too much shade inside the canopy. You can judge if there is
too much shade in the canopy by looking at the ground beneath a canopy. There
is enough light passing through the canopy if you can see speckles of light
throughout the shadow of the canopy on the ground.
First of
all, remove branches that are crossing or any branches growing back toward the
center of the tree. Next, remove
branches which are growing straight up or straight down. Once you have done this, stand back and look
at the shadow of the canopy on the ground.
Is light passing through the canopy and causing speckles to form
throughout its shadow on the ground? If
this is now happening, perhaps you should stop pruning until after harvest.
Citrus
does not require much pruning but getting rid of problem branches such as those
that are crossing, growing to close together or growing back to rid the center
of the tree would be recommended.
Lets Hope for a Gradual Drop in Temperatures This Fall
Normally
we enjoy very nice fall weather in Las Vegas until about the first week of
December and oftentimes without frost. This would be pretty normal. To have
freezing weather before this, or unusually cold weather, would be a bit odd. As
long as the temperatures continue to drop slowly to our winter minimum lows our
perennial plants that can withstand some light freezing weather will survive
the winter.
Cold temperature damage to cycad. Notice there is more damage closer to the ground where cold temperatures lay. |
If
November temperatures drop suddenly, or we have snow before trees drop their
leaves, then we can have problems. If we are enjoying, for instance, night time
temperatures just falling below 50F and then it suddenly drops to 30F the next
night, then we might see major freezing damage in plants that normally might
tolerate temperatures to 20F. To survive the winter minimums, winter-tender
plants need time to acclimate to these low temperatures so that they can create
their “antifreeze” if they are to survive.
Decreasing
fall and winter temperatures also helps leaves to drop. One good cold snap in
the fall can cause tree leaves to drop prematurely. One day the leaves are
there and in just three or four days after the freeze, they are on the ground.
Trees like ash and Chinese pistache don’t please us with their winter colors
when this happens.
Reader's African Sumac with snow damage during the snow of December 2008. You will need to get out and hit the limbs with a broom during heavy snow falls. |
There is
a good side to this early leaf drop. If we have one of our “every five year” snow
events, and it comes after early leaf drop, we miss all the damage snow can
cause that time of year. If snow comes early and these trees have not dropped
their leaves, then we can have massive limb breakage due to the snow load on
limbs.
How we
manage winter-tender plants going into the fall months can make the difference
between their survival and death from winter freezes. It is important to
withhold fertilizers, particularly nitrogen, during and after the month of
August. It is also important to change the irrigation clock so that water is
delivered less frequently that time of year.
If
winter-tender plants are still pushing new growth or they are still succulent
at this time of year, there may not be enough time for them to begin their adjustment
for winter cold. This adjustment takes them a couple of months of decreasing
temperatures and longer nights to accomplish this.
Sunday, November 18, 2012
Lemon Tree in Container with Yellow Leaves
Q. I have a small lemon tree growing in a large container. I
now have many small lemons on it which seem to be getting larger. My problem is
that the leaves are a sickly, yellow color. I fertilized it in late February
with a fertilizer labeled for citrus. It looks like it needs some iron and/or
more fertilizer. What is best to apply now that will not cause the little
lemons to fall off, or is it best to wait before applying anything?
One pound canniser of EDDHA chelated iron |
Next year
apply this chelate to the soil in January or February just before new growth
begins. This chelate should help green things up. Leaves that are already
yellow may still stay somewhat yellow but the new growth coming out in the next
month should be green.
Make sure
you check the soil moisture and do not irrigate if the soil is still wet. The
soil should not completely dry out but should be damp and not wet. You can try
one of those inexpensive soil moisture meters they use for houseplants and see
if that helps you to judge the soil moisture before you irrigate. I hope this
helps.
Figs and Pomegranates a Great Combination to Grow
Q.
I have some Eversweet, Utah, and Wonderful pomegranates plus some unknowns, and
was wondering what other types might do well in this area. Also have a Turkey,
Kadota, and Mission fig, and was wondering the same for them. I recently saw a
Blackjack fig in a local nursery but thought it may be another name for one I
already have.
Crop of Wonderful pomegranates with proper pruning watering and fertilizer |
A.
You have three of the best pomegranates out there available to homeowners. One
that has come into alot of favor in the past few years is Parfianka and has
outstanding quality. Like Utah Sweet, it has an edible seed that is quite small
for a pomegranate. Some others that I have liked include Sharp Velvet, Red Silk
and Granada.
Black Jack fig is a good fig. I am
not aware of a “bad” fig for our desert environment. All that you mention are
good. I would also include on that list Janice, a “seedless” kadota type and
Desert King or sometimes just called King.
Science in Action: Synthetic Play Surfaces in the Desert
Artificial turfgrass surfaces, in
the past, were viewed as expensive playing surfaces relegated to professional
sports fields and not meant for municipal or backyard applications. Now, faced
with limited resources and an ever expanding user population, organizations and
public entities are interested in finding ways to reduce costs and maximize
athletic field capacity. Natural grass playing surfaces are being successfully challenged
by these improved artificial surfaces in many different applications.
There has
been an evolution in synthetic playing surfaces since the 1960’s during which
AstroTurfTM became a household name. Due to clever marketing,
AstroTurfTM was tied to the image of “space age” technology
and domed stadiums like the Huston Astrodome for which it was named and Minneapolis ’ Metrodome. Untreated
nylon and polyurethane grass and mat surfaces were highly susceptible to
decomposition by UV light and not very durable, with high maintenance costs.
These surfaces were replaced on an average of every five years, certainly not
within the budgets of municipalities and homeowners.
But
AstroTurfTM had numerous other problems as well which included
its poor drainage characteristics, impact on ball roll and bounce, alteration
in the speed of players on the field affecting play, increase in minor injuries
to players and finally the players just didn’t like it. Instead of addressing
the problems, Monsanto and other competing firms with similar products, suggested
things like elbow pads and special turf shoes when playing on artificial
turfgrass.
The
original AstroTurfTM no longer exists on any NFL fields as these types
of products eventually evolved to newer and improved artificial surfaces
(AstroPlayTM, FieldTurfTM, Sportexe Momentum
TurfTM,
RealGrassTM,
and others) or in some cases fields were converted back to natural grass.
A quick review of the artificial turfgrass evolution might be interesting.
During the
1970’s little was done to improve the artificial turfgrass industry as Monsanto
dominated the market with the exit of competing products from companies like 3M
and Biltrite. AstroTurfTM was the only artificial turfgrass available,
they had captured the market and so R and D came to a standstill.
During the
early 1980’s engineers attempted to correct the problems of ball roll and
drainage problems still associated with artificial turfgrass. The ball roll
problem was solved by “texturizing” the nylon grass fibers, making them kinked
instead of smooth.
During the late 1980’s new products
began to emerge that attempted to combine natural and synthetic surfaces into
one playing field hoping to capitalize on the best attributes of both. Surfaces
such as the original sportsgrassTM emerged which used polypropylene grass blades held
together with a woven backing that was applied to an amended layer of sand.
Natural grass was grown by seeding
or sprigging into this synthetic layer in hopes of preventing damage to the
crown and root systems from heavy play. Roots
could grow through the woven backing and into the sand below. Since grass roots
grow down through the synthetic fibers and backing, the crown and roots of the
plant would be protected. Complaints
emerged in some parts of the country that the playing surface became hard from
compaction and extensive play damaged the synthetic backing. This type of
damage led to an unstable playing surface which in turn hampered regrowth of
the natural grass.
Engineers in the sports field
industry also tackled the player injury and stability problem by paving the
soil under the turfgrass with asphalt and adding a layer of PVC foam for
cushioning. Outside fields subjected to heavy rains were “crowned”, making the
center of the field 16 to 25 inches higher than the sides so that water would surface
drain off of the field.
Porous
asphalt, a technology developed in England , was incorporated into the
engineering of artificial turfgrass to improve internal drainage. First the soil
of the field was leveled and then covered with a layer of crushed rock several
inches thick. A layer of porous asphalt was laid on top of the gravel followed
by a shock-absorbing pad and finally followed by the turf. After installation,
the turf was glued to the pad and holes were punched through the foam pad for
drainage.
Things
changed in the 1990’s when strong and soft polyethylene was chosen by
artificial turfgrass manufacturers to replace the stiff but durable nylon of
the past. The fibers were UV resistant and long compared to previous artificial
turfgrass fibers. These fibers were “tufted” into a mat in a process similar in
appearance to a shag rug. Once the “sod carpet” was in place, it was topdressed
with “infill” which could be recycled rubber called “crumb” or a mixture of this
rubber and sand. Recycled rubber has been a source of controversy as to its
potential for damaging the environment and human health concerns. An average
football field might require up to 400 tons of infill applied to its surface.
In most recent years, two groups of artificial turfgrasses
have emerged with infill systems (NeXturfTM, AstroPlayTM and FieldTurfTM). These products carried
claims that they realistically duplicated natural grass color and playability,
allowed for more play, and provided a ten year life before replacement. If
true, this was a significant improvement over previous generations of
artificial turf and placed it with the budgetary reach of nonprofessional
sports turf and municipal budgets. But the part that caught the eye of
municipalities and managers of nonprofessional sports fields with smaller
budgets were the claims that these surfaces lowered long term maintenance costs
(no water, no chemicals, decreased labor), were more environmentally friendly (no
pesticides or fertilizers) while at the same time reduced major injuries to players.
During the early years
of AstroTurfTM, players complained of numerous minor injuries such as
"turf toe" (a ligament sprain in the big toe that was exacerbated by
artificial turf), “turf burn” (skin abrasions like rug burn), foot blisters,
and bruised toes. Since then numerous studies have been conducted to evaluate
the safety and playability of synthetic surfaces. Mechanical devices have been
devised to simulate human movement across a playing surface, injury from
concussions, and the type and number of injuries occurring to athletes during
events were counted and recorded.
Reports and studies are numerous that
demonstrated fewer serious player injuries on artificial turfgrass compared to
natural grass (NFL, NCAA, reports by the University of Nebraska, and the
Amarillo Independent School District) while claims of minor injuries (such as
“turf burn”) still persisted.
Researchers have suggested that the reason for fewer player injuries on
artificial grass might be due to a more even and predictable playing surface
and the accessibility of these fields to frequent and timely practices which
were not possible on natural grass surfaces that needed repair after heavy play.
The rationale for switching to
artificial turfgrass since that first installation has varied based on site
location and user needs. Reasons have included: increasing playability during
inclement weather, lower maintenance costs, and perhaps most relevant to the
southwestern United States ,
the conservation of water. However, a potentially significant undesirable
characteristic of artificial turfgrass is the elevated surface temperatures (approaching
170 F) which restricts play during the summer months and human health concerns
for players.
Communities like Las Vegas have spent millions of dollars
replacing turfgrass on recreational sporting fields with artificial turfgrass,
with the goal of reducing maintenance costs, increasing play time while saving
significant amounts of money by eliminating irrigation. Although the rapid
increase in surface temperature in the presence of sunlight has been known for
decades little research has been published on the subject, especially related
to the controlling forces behind the rise in temperature. The majority of
information currently available on elevated surface temperature of artificial
turfgrass has come from unpublished studies available from internet web sites.
Research at the University of Nevada
in Las Vegas examined
the factors that influence surface temperature rise of artificial turfgrass. The
data collection included surface temperatures, spectral reflectance, solar
radiation and air temperatures associated with different landscape covers and
artificial turfgrass components; and, an assessment of energy balance and heat
transport through artificial turfgrass.
Protecting Palms From Winter Freezing
Freeze damage to "pineapple palm" |
Q. Last winter we had a cold spell that turned the fronds on most of my Canary Palms brown and one of them is still recovering and hasn't reached its full width as of yet. My question...
How can I protect them from the cold that is coming in the next week and probably the rest of the winter? I've seen a few neighbors have wrapped the base of theirs where the fronds meet the trunk with burlap. Will this help? Any suggestions you can give me would be greatly appreciated as these are my favorites in our yard (we're from the Midwest originally so owning Palm trees is a kick)
Freeze damage to fan palm |
It is usually good to about 10F for short periods of time. If cold kills the terminal bud the tree will eventually die because it cannot continue its growth without that terminal bud. Damage can also occur to the trunk from freezing temperatures so wrapping the trunk or wrapping some lights around the trunk might help.
Remember that cold damage is measured in how low the temperature gets combined with the amount of time it stays at these temperatures plus any wind that might be present and the time of year. Extreme cold is more damaging in late fall and early spring than mid-winter. Winter damage to palms may not show up right after the cold temperatures. In some cases the extent of the damage my linger for years. I hope this helps.