I made some changes in the one I posted earlier and embedded it from Scribd as a pdf document. Please let me know if you have trouble downloading it by posting here on the blog. This has been put together for elevations of about 500 ft (160m) to 3000 ft (1000m) elevations at 36 degrees N. Latitude in a desert environment.
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
Monday, January 27, 2014
Garden Placement is Very Important in the Desert
Q. I have planter boxes which get hours and hours of
direct sun. I've tried everything from corn, to edamame, grapes, peppers, tomatillo,
and many others. I have even put up shading but either there is too much sun or
maybe I over water. I'd like to start now and get a jump on summer.
How Much Compost to Add to Garden Depends on Soil
Q. I am starting a new garden spot. How much compost
should I add to the soil?
A. If this is a new spot of raw desert soil or fill, the
first year incorporate about 12 cubic yards of compost into 1000 square feet of
growing area to a depth of 12 inches. The second year of growing incorporate
half of that; the third year, half of what you applied the second year.
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| If desert soil has never had compost added to it or it was never in any kind of agricultural production then the first application will be very heavy. The second year not as much is needed and the third year the amount added is even less. |
Each
year afterwards add 2 yards per 1000 square feet to maintain soil organic
matter and production levels. Why so much? You can visit my blog and learn why.
I would
recommend growing in beds clearly identified for your garden. The areas between
the beds are designated for foot traffic.
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| When compost is added at the rate of 12 cubic yards for every 1000 square feet it doesn't seem like much when it is incorporated to a depth of 12 inches. |
Raised
beds do not require hard construction sidewalls. Constructing hard sidewalls
gives you about six inches of extra growing space around the edge of the beds. Constructed
beds should be 12 to 18 inches tall and three to four feet wide. Foot access
should be provided on all sides of the bed.
Raised
beds will stay in place without hard sidewalls if constructed properly. You can
see beds like these on the UNCE Orchard in North Las Vegas.
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| The second year about half of the compost is added to the raised beds that was added the first year to build soil organic matter. Raised beds do not need constructed hard sidewalls. Mulch is put down the center aisle for walking. |
Drip
irrigation is best. Drip emitters should be about 12 inches apart for most
crops. Crops that require closer spacing (onions, garlic, beets, and carrots) may
require emitters closer than this. All emitters should release water at the
same rate and pressure.
Space
tubing one foot apart lengthwise down the beds. A 3 - 4 foot wide bed would
have three in each bed. The four foot wide would accommodate three as well but
spaced further apart.
Mulching
vegetables during the summer heat helps. Use straw or a light topdressing (3/8
inch minus) of screened compost.
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| After amending the soil and building the raised beds, the drip irrigation is installed. This is drip tubing with emitters spaced every 12 inches along the tubing. |
If
rabbits are a problem, fence the area with 2 ft. wide chicken wire, one inch
hex, buried on the bottom edge one inch deep. Fertilize vegetables lightly once
a month. Use a high phosphorus fertilizer at planting time. Irrigate daily
during the summer months. Remove weeds daily when they are small.