Stand Alone Pages
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Saturday, April 16, 2016
Sunday, April 10, 2016
Swarms of Little Black Bugs Attack Plants
Q. A few days ago my rose
bushes were swarmed with small black (iridescent) flying beetles and they've
cleaned out most of my roses. They also wiped out my one strawberry plant.
Flea beetle ataxic grape leaves leaving holes |
Flea beetles aren't very large but they are small, black and iridescent |
If enough of them come through this is the kind of damage they can do in a short time |
A. I have not seen them
but flea beetles come to mind this time of year. They are small, black and
iridescent. This is the time of year they are normally active as well again in
the fall.
They
normally come in large swarms devouring a lot of soft leaves including roses,
strawberries, grapes to name a few.
In
about two weeks they will be gone as quickly as they appeared. The plants will
grow back. I would not recommend anything to spray but simply wait until they
are gone then give the plants a deep watering and fertilizer so they recover
quickly.
Spring Rain Can Bring Several Problems to Landscapes
The
rain this past weekend may have brought some problems along with it, the same
as it did last year after a rain like this. Problems might develop during the
coming week or, with some plants, even extend into May or later.
Japanese euonymous with powdery mildew |
Plants
like roses may show signs of powdery mildew disease. This disease is aggravated
by cool, wet weather, splashing rain, followed by warm weather. It appears as a
white powdery dust on the leaves that can kill them. This disease is usually weak
in our climate mostly because of our low humidity and cloudless days.
Rose with powdery mildew |
Pull
off a few leaves so air can circulate through the plants and allow them dry out
naturally. Apply a preventive spray of a conventional fungicide for roses,
sulfur dust or Neem oil. Lower humidity, air movement and sunlight in the
coming days may clear up this problem without pesticides on some plants.
Fire blight in pear |
Another problem on European and Asian pear as well as
some apples is fire blight. This disease is particularly virulent too many members
of the Rose family such as many of our fruit trees.
If
these trees were flowering during this rain it is possible this disease may show
its ugly head toward the beginning of May. Look for jet black dieback on new
growth, usually very close to the infected flowers.
Classic symptoms of fire blight in pear |
Cut
out these stems or branches 12 inches below the infection and sterilize pruning
tools after each cut. Bag these infected plant parts and get them off of your
property.
Pomegranate disease due to wet spring weather |
Pomegranates that are flowering may develop fruit with a
black interior later in the season. This disease can be the result of wet
weather when they are flowering. This disease may not appear on fruit until
quite a bit later in the season. It does not spread beyond the fruit and the
fruit is inedible.
Mushrooms popping up in wood mulch after rain |
Mushrooms frequently pop out of the ground after a rain
like this. Nothing to worry about but knock them over with a rake and keep them
away from your pets. They are feeding off of decaying wood or wood chips in the
soil or on the soil surface. They are good guys.
How to Care for Lilacs in the Desert
Q. My lilacs have bloomed
and the flowers are gone. Is now the time to prune or do nothing? How do you prune
or care for the lilacs.
Lilac planted in rock mulch with brown scorched leaves |
A. Most people don't know
that low-chill varieties of common lilac will grow here as well as the Persian
lilacs. Plant them in plenty of sunlight but in places which avoid the hot
afternoon sun. All lilacs must be planted in a composted soil with a wood chip
mulch. Rock mulch will not work.
Low-chill
varieties do not need as much low temperatures to produce flowers. Lilacs that
are not low chill will not produce as many flowers in our warm winter climate. Some
plants require long periods of time when temperatures are cold so that flowers
will be produced the next year.
Persian
lilac may be a better choice for our climate and in smaller yards than common
lilac. Persian lilacs are smaller in stature than common lilac, with smaller
flower clusters and a lower winter chill requirement.
Hopefully
local nurseries and garden centers that sell lilacs for our climate are
selecting low-chill types such as an old time favorite here called "Lavender
Lady". I believe this, along with "Angel White" were the first
low chill lilacs available that would grow in the desert Southwest. Many of
these low-chill varieties are referred to as the “Descanso Hybrids”.
Lilacs
are not desert plants so they require lots of compost mixed in the soil at the
time of planting with the soil covered in wood chips that decay over time. They
should not be in rock mulch.
A very nice article appeared
in Sunset Magazine and you can read it here
http://www.sunset.com/garden/flowers-plants/mild-climate-lilacs
As
with any seasonal flowering shrub or tree the best time to prune them is soon
after flowering. If pruned later than this, the flowers for next year may not
be produced.
First,
remove the dead flowers before they form seeds by cutting them off at the base.
Next, if needed, cut back branches or stems.
To
increase the number of flowers you should increase the number of new branches
it produces. Use a "heading cut". This type of cut is made somewhere
along the length of the branch, usually just above a leaf on the outside of the
branch.
Heading
cuts grow three or four new shoots for every one that is cut that is made. This
is an excellent way to make a shrub denser with more flowers.
If the shrub is getting
too large, remove one third of all the longest stems back to within a couple of
inches above ground. New stems will grow from just below these cuts.
A
radical way of pruning this plant is to totally cut it off just above the soil
surface. With plenty of water and some fertilizer new shoots will grow from
these very short stubs resulting in an all-new plant. This is pretty radical
but if the plant is overgrown with lots of wood showing, this may be your only
alternative.
Remember,
after pruning give it plenty of water and fertilize it with an all-purpose
fertilizer.
Bottlebrush Several Reasons for Yellowing
Q. Two out of my 3 bottle
brush bushes look dry and yellowish. The first 2 years they were fine. Does it
mean they are not watered enough?
Bottlebrush flowering |
Bottlebrush after Winter cold damage |
Bottlebrush with yellowing due to iron chlorosis |
A. Many plants in general,
including bottlebrush, can be damaged if watered either too often or not watered
frequently enough. If you are going to error about watering, it is better to
give plants too much water than water them too often. But I think the problems
iron, not water.
Right
now water plants like this once or maybe twice each week at the most. Yellowing
of the leaves can also happen because of real low winter temperatures.
Similarly, it can also happen if the soil is not improved or covered in rock
mulch.
Bottlebrush
don't like rock mulch at all and if they are planted in rock mulch they
frequently turn yellow in 3 to 5 years. If they get yellow enough, the leaves
begin to turn brown and scorch. This is what I think happened to your plants.
Purchase
an iron fertilizer and apply it to the soil above the roots now and water it in.
The best iron fertilizer contains the letters EDDHA on the label or in the
ingredients. EDDHA iron chelate is an important for iron product to use in
desert soils.
Iron
applied to the soil will only improve the green color of new growth. The older
leaves which are yellow can only be improved with an iron fertilizer solution
sprayed on the leaves. Spray this solution in one week intervals until you get
a dark green color.
If
these are growing in rock mulch, buy good quality compost, not a soil mix, and
spread it around each of the plants and water it in. Apply around one to one
half cubic foot of compost to the base of these plants and water it in, even in
rock mulch.