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Saturday, June 20, 2020
Roses Don't Like Las Vegas' "Winter"
Roses Hate Las Vegas Summers
It's summer. This is
the time of year when garden roses struggle. Summer is their "winter". As the temperatures get hot, roses
stop flowering and the leaf edges turn brown and scorch. The month and week it
stops flowering depends on their “landscape exposure” (which magnetic direction
they are facing in the landscape), how the soil was amended where it was
planted, the variety planted and its overall health.
Rose Family Plants Don't Like Rock
Some plants
don’t grow well in rock and roses are one of them. Nearly all landscape plants
in the Rose Family (think Photinia, pyracantha, strawberry, Carolina cherry
laurel, and most of our favorite fruit trees) like soil improvement and a moist
environment when planted in desert soils. The number of native Mojave Desert
plants in the Rose Family is very limited. That tells you something about the desert environment and the Rose Family.
Roses Like Amended Soil
The most
favorable environment for garden roses in the desert is soil amended with
compost at planting, six hours or more of morning sun, organic mulch on the
soil surface (like woodchips) and moist soil. Garden roses will NOT do well the
first year after planting if put in the wrong location, the soil is amended
poorly and not watered correctly. They will begin failing in 3 to 5 years if
surrounded by rock.
Apply Fertilizers to Roses
Applying
the right kind of fertilizer at the right time is only part of the success
equation. Applying a rose fertilizer once in the spring is adequate, three
times during the growing season is better and it can get complicated from there
with fertilizer favorites and soil amendments if you are a rose enthusiast.
Select Roses that Like the Desert
Some
roses perform better in the hot desert than others. Consult Cooperative
Extension or the Weeks Roses wholesale website for suggested recommendedvarieties for the desert when buying or replacing. Roses last 20 years or more
if properly selected, planted and maintained.
Coconut Palm Not for Las Vegas Permanently
Q. My son gave me a small coconut tree in a pot for
Mother’s Day. I waited about 2 weeks before I planted it in a bigger pot. I’ve
put it on the patio that faces west so it’s hot in that location. How can I help
this coconut thrive in the desert?
A palm is a nice Mothers Day gift but you cant keep it unless you are in south Florida or live in the tropics. |
A. You can’t. This isn’t the tropics. It can handle our
heat but not our cold temperatures. It can’t
thrive here even if it survives the freezing temperatures of our winter. The
biggest problem it faces, besides surviving the winter, are the cool spring and
fall months. Extended periods of cold below 45° F causes permanent damage to a coconut
palm.
This coconut fell from a palm into this water in the Philippines. It germinates easily if temps are warm enough. |
Coconut
palm is truly one of the tropical palm trees. You will find coconut palms in
Hawaii and southern Florida but it’s even too cool for coconut palms in
Southern California so we seldom see them there.
Keep Dry Fertilizer Dry
Q. I have 50-pound sacks of 16-16-16 fertilizer in
plastic bags. Somehow moisture got in the bags and the granules are wet enough that
the fertilizer doesn’t drop through the spreader anymore. I live in a wet
climate. What can I do to dry this fertilizer out?
Granular fertilizers like this Arizonas Best Citrus Fertilizer will last for years as long as it stays dry. |
A. All sorts of scenarios are dancing through my head. Dry
fertilizers in bags are meant to stay dry. If dry granular fertilizers stay
dry, they are never hard to use. Getting wet is the one thing that can ruin a
dry fertilizer specifically designed for use in spreaders that rely on some
sort of a hopper (where you pour the dry fertilizer) for spreading it.
Drop Spreaders are for Lawns
Drop spreaders rely on specifically
sized granules so it’s settings can be adjusted properly for a precise application
rate. They are usually used for applying fertilizers to lawns. You have lost
the drop spreader application option for that fertilizer. Chalk it up to
“lessons learned” and buy a different bag of lawn fertilizer. This time get a
“true” lawn fertilizer like a 21-7-14 and not 16-16-16. The “ideal” lawn
fertilizer contains less phosphorus like 21–7–14 with half of its nitrogen (the
first number) available in a slow release form.
No Weed n Feed and Chunks
As long
as this fertilizer was not a “Weed N Feed”,
use it for other landscape plants, as a compost starter or even in a
raised vegetable garden. In desert climates, spread the moist fertilizer out and
use the sun to dry it. After drying, the fertilizer will dry into “chunks” that
must be broken small enough to be used. Breaking it apart also creates some
powder. You could still use a rotary spreader provided the fertilizer granules
are dried and broken small enough to use its hopper or even apply it by
hand.
This 16-16-16 is a complete, all-purpose fertilizer with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Use it once a season but no more than that because of the high phosphorus content. |
Soluble Fertilizers Dissolve Quickly
Fertilizers
like 16–16–16 are made by mixing two or three fertilizers, with similar sized
granules, together. The nitrogen granules in this fertilizer is probably the
first to dissolve when it becomes moist . The dissolving of these nitrogen
granules “glues” the other granules together into “chunks”. Breaking these
chunks apart creates a white powder. You can use this powder to make a liquid
fertilizer.
Another example of a lawn fertilizer because it has a low phosphorus content (middle number). It would be better if the last number, potassium, was a bit higher. |
Use no
more than 1 to 1½ tablespoons of this powder dissolved in each gallon of water.
This solution of water and fertilizer can be used to spray the leaves. This “liquid
fertilizer” can also be poured safely on the soil very close to the plants. The
remaining granular fertilizer can be used just like any 16-16-16 fertilizer. It
won’t be 16-16-16 anymore but it will be a fertilizer probably high in phosphorus
and potassium.
Don’t throw
this bag out. Use the fertilizer in it. It’s just going to take a little bit of
work to get into a usable form.
Best Branch Angles are 45 Degrees from Horizontal (or vertical)
Q. This is the second year for my Santa Rosa plum. I attached some garden trowels to some of the
main branches to open – up the tree to a vase shape. Is this a good idea?
Weights work good for opening up or spreading open a fruit tree like this Santa Rosa plum growing in Las Vegas. Limb spreaders are faster. |
A. Somehow I feel like this was a setup. Yes! If you
follow me long enough you know I like to see flower and fruiting plants without
their branches growing at 45° above horizontal. Many types of plum have narrow crotch angles and their canopy needs
to grow more openly.
Some trees grow upright even if they aren't supposed to like pears, many plums, Asian pears and their ornamental counterparts. Good crotch angles form a "U" when they are strongly attached to a limb or trunk. Weak crotch angels form a "V" when the angle is too weak and the limb will split when it gets some weight on it. The branch in the back is growing straight up. No, no, no. Get rid of it now! (and that little one in front, too!) |
Branches
growing at 45° angles produce an optimum balance between growth and flower or fruit
production. Branches growing horizontally or downward may flower well but don’t
grow fast. Branches growing nearly upright (vertical) grow very rapidly but
they are slow to flower. The tree intends for this type of growth to give it
height. Some trees grow extremely upright (most pears for instance) and the
limbs should be spread apart and pruned to outward growth in mid to late spring
to slow it down and improve flowering or fruiting.
When young trees or young growth grows too close together and upright, use a limb spreader to push the branches apart for one season of growth. |
Plants don’t
care if their limbs are spread to 45° by weights or another method. I prefer to
use “limb spreaders” of different lengths (4, 8, 12 and 18 inches). They are
faster and less adjustment is needed. You can make them with forked ends out of
one-inch wood lath and even wooden paint
stirrers. They should be strong enough to hold branches apart and not break while
doing it.
Be
careful spreading limbs apart early in the season when they easily split if
bent too far. After the new growth in the spring is an inch or two is the
perfect time to bend limbs to their proper angle and either a hang weights, use
limb spreaders and prune to outside growth to open the canopy wider. After one
season of growth in this position they can be removed.
Just Because Its a Cactus Doesn't Mean it Loves it in the Mojave!
Some pictures of "torch" cacti in the yard of one of my readers. Great job! |
Several
questions were sent to me regarding cacti. In general, the most common reason
for failure of cactus is watering too often. The second most common reason for
cactus problems is because it was put in a hot, bright location when it should
be located in a protected part of the yard. The third reason is because the
cactus was damaged during our winter cold temperatures and prefers being
planted in a warmer climate.
Argentine Giant Cactus (Not yet!) |
Automatic Irrigation
Be
careful when putting cacti on an automatic water or irrigation timer. They are
watered so infrequently that it sometimes makes sense to water these plants
manually with a hose rather than automate it. When cacti begin to shrivel, it’s
time to water. When they look plump and firm, they don’t need water.
If you’ve
got lots of cacti and you are using an automatic timer, then run that station
or valve when they need water but make sure they have good drainage if you
water them automatically (without looking at them). A hose, manual timer and
sprinkler also makes sense for larger desert plants.
Watch for winter low temperature damage. Know your cactus! |
Water Cacti 12 inches deep
Medium-sized
and small cacti should be watered about 12 inches deep. Large desert plants
like a saguaro or Joshua tree should be watered 18 inches deep and have water
applied to an area underneath them equal to at least half of their height.
Watering a large area under large plants helps keep them stable and keeps them from
falling over when the tops get large and heavy. Watering any of these plants
too often can cause disease or unsightly growth problems.
Cactus from the Sonoran Desert, like this nopal, may require warmer temperatures when planted in the Mojave. |
Your Cactus Has a Name
Find out
the scientific name for your cactus and Google it. Learn where it originated from.
Some cacti are native to the southeastern US or higher elevations in other
countries. In these locations it was cooler so they will need protection from
late afternoon sun in the Mojave Desert. Cacti native to our Southwestern
deserts do not. They can handle hot and dry locations. Learn if your cactus should
be planted in a gentler landscape location or can handle the harsh ones.
Watering only at the base of most cacti results in blowover with wind and if they get tall like this one in Parker, AZ. |
Know Where it Comes From
Some
cacti are tropical or subtropical and get damaged because of our low winter
temperatures in the Mojave Desert. Cacti which can handle low temperatures of
20° F or lower probably will not need much winter protection in all but the
coldest years. Other cacti which are less tolerant of these low temperatures might,
depending on your landscape microclimate and location in the valley.