A. Windbreaks and screens for sunlight in the desert are
usually best if they are close to the affected area. The reason is that plants
used for screening or deflecting wind have to be pretty big to do any good when
they are far away.
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| Windbreak diagram but I cant remember where I got this from on the internet. sorry. |
If this
problem is seasonal, you would select deciduous plants that drop their leaves
in the fall and allow wind or sun through during winter months.
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| Bill Stillman pomegranate windbreak in Bullhead City, AZ |
General
rule of thumb is that wind is affected on the downwind side of a windbreak from
5 to 8 times its height, depending on the type and direction of winds.
To be
effective, windbreaks made from plants should be at least two layers thick and
not a single layer or a few plants planted in a straight line. The majority of
wind will be diverted over the top, bottom and around the sides of windbreaks.
Wind that does go through a porous windbreak will be slowed.
How much
it is slowed depends on how “porous” the windbreak is. Try to achieve about 20%
porosity. In other words, about 20% of the windbreak has holes or pores in it.
This lets wind through it, slows it and decreases the amount diverted up or
around a windbreak.
In the desert,
think about structures to do this more than plants. These structures would be
things like walls or trellises that can be covered with vines rather than large
plants. A vine covering a wall or trellis will use far less water than plants
the size and density needed to reduce wind speed and sunlight.
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| Great way to add screen and windbreak in a desert landscape |
Also,
using a structure and vines or small shrubs in combination will achieve a more
permanent solution to the problems and occupy less space in small residential
landscapes. Avoid wood structures which crack and check in our dry heat.
Instead use cement and metal options that are more resistant to our harsh
environment.
Try Bamboo
ReplyDelete10 years ago my neighbor down the street heard I was looking for a living privacy screen along my south property line so he thinned out his bamboo and I hauled it home. I planted one long line, approximately 125' and watered it. It has grown to 12-15 ft tall and about 4 ft wide. I only water it when the leaf blades start to curl. I have thinned it out and started a green fence in two other areas also. Would you like a picture?
Sure. Send it to Extremehort@aol.com and I will post it.
DeleteWestern structures provide great shade in the late summer afternoon (starting about 3PM?), but southern trees provide little shade in the summer as the sun is 78 degrees overhead in the late morning-afternoon in Vegas. That means a 30 foot tree will cast about a 4 foot shadow to the north. Not much unless you grow (heavy) branches directly over the house.
ReplyDeleteWind is a different matter and any south and west structure(s) of sufficient height and density should work most of the time year-round in the Vegas area (prevailing winds).
Any suggested species for a living wind break in Utah growing zone 6a, 6b? It is a "high desert" region at about 5400' elevation.
ReplyDeleteI lived in a climate that is like that at one time. If you have plenty of water then any tree or shrub that will take those cold temperatures will work. The cold temperatures will limit the tree or shrub. Do that first. Available water limits the TYPE of plant you can use. Do that second. Native plants are always more desirable.
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