USDA National Organic Programs Updates List of Approved Chemicals

 

USDA Publishes Advance Notice of Proposed Rulemaking Inert Ingredients in Pesticides for Organic Production Today, the USDA National Organic Program previewed an advance notice of proposed rulemaking (ANPR) that asks the public to comment on options to update how the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances (National List) references inert ingredients in pesticides allowed for organic production. The National List currently uses Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) inert ingredient lists, but these lists are no longer maintained by EPA and are out of date. USDA is asking the public to comment on options to revise the National List, including several derived from NOSB recommendations. USDA will use feedback gathered from public comment to inform any future rulemaking about inert ingredients in pesticides. The public comment period opens today and closes on November 1, 2022. Be part of the policymaking process and make your voice heard—click on the link below to read the ANPR and submit a comment. Read and Comment on the ANPR   About the National List The National List is a tool for managing the substances used in organic production. In general, natural substances are allowed in organic production, and synthetic substances are prohibited. The National List identifies the limited exceptions to these general rules. Changes to the National List require a National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) recommendation and USDA rulemaking, a process that provides multiple opportunities for public comment. More information on the National List, including how and why substances are added or removed from it, is available on the USDA, National Organic Program, National List webpage. Organic Integrity from Farm to Table. Consumers Trust the Organic Label. Organic Insider Archive

Replace Conventional Fertilizers with Organic Fertilizers

Q. I want to replace all my chemical fertilizers with organic formulations. The problem is that I’m not finding any organic fertilizers for landscape trees and shrubs such as podocarpus and photinia. Is it possible to make my own? Please tell me what you recommend.

For the USDA National Organic Program find fertilizers that are OMRI Listed or Approved for the USDA NOP. Other countries, places and people have different definitions of "organic".

A. The definition of “organic” can be difficult. To some people organic means free from pesticides and mineral fertilizers. To others it’s things like fish emulsion, kelp meal, bone meal guano, etc. To others it means strict adherence to the USDA definition of organic. In the United States the term organic usually means it’s a listed product of OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) which recommends products for the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP).

OMRI Listed - USDA NOP

            There are fertilizers in bags listed as OMRI approved. I would look for the word “Organic” mentioned somewhere on the bag. Technically, a product cannot mention the word organic unless it’s recommended for USDA’s organic program. One that comes to mind is the OMRI Listed fertilizer called, “All Purpose” manufactured by Grow More. It resembles a mineral fertilizer when you open the bag but it’s one of the “organic” types.

Organic Production in US and Recent Additions to NOP List

 

USDA Amends the National List for

Organic Crops and Handling

Final Rule Published

The Organic Foods Production Act created the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances (National List) as a tool for managing the substances used in organic production in the US over time. In general, natural substances are allowed in organics, and synthetic substances are prohibited. The National List identifies the limited exceptions to these general rules. The National List also identifies nonagricultural and nonorganic agricultural substances (ingredients) that may be used in organic handling. Changes to the National List require a National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) recommendation and USDA rulemaking, a process that provides multiple opportunities for public comment.

Today, the USDA published a final rule in the Federal Register to amend the National List for crops and handling based on public input and October 2019 NOSB recommendations. This final rule provides additional options for organic farms by adding two substances to the list of substances allowed for organic crop production.

This final rule allows:

• Fatty alcohols as sucker control in organic tobacco production.
• Example of chemicals tested:
• Potassium hypochlorite to treat irrigation water used in organic crop production.
• Potassium hypochlorite recommendation:.

Visit the Final Rule Changes to what can and cannot be applied organically

About the National List

More information on the National List, including how and why substances are added or removed, is available on the USDA, National Organic Program, National List webpage.

Use Traps on Fruit Trees Not Insecticides

Q. I was reading your blog about peach tree bore and I am planning to buy some pheromone traps. Which traps and lowers should I buy?

A. In southern Nevada we do not have peach tree borer. We have borers that get into peach trees but these are not peach tree borers. They are thought to be the flat headed Apple Tree Borer and/or the Pacific flatheaded borer. To my knowledge neither have lures and no way of trapping them using pheromones.

Pheromone traps can be very effective at removing some pests that attack fruit trees or fruit but there are not pheromone traps for every pest. Pheromone traps are highly selective and very effective at luring a very specific pest to the trap where it is stuck to a very sticky surface. You must be 100% certain of the pest you are trying to lure or it will not work.

This is the sticky bottom of a winged trap. The reddish-brown upright capsule in the center is made of soft rubber impregnated with the sex attractant called a pheromone.

            In this case you mentioned peach tree borer. This is not the insect we are trying to attract. We do not have this pest in Southern Nevada so if you buy a trap for peach tree bore you are wasting your money.It is a problem in more northern climates such as Central Utah, Colorado and California.

            The pest we are interested in is the peach TWIG borer, not the peach tree borer. The peach twig borer attacks new growth in the spring, killing it, then later generations attack the soft fruit causing “wormy peaches”. Occasionally we find this “worm” in apricots, nectarines and almonds.

This is the kind of damage we see very early in the season by the peach twig borer in new growth of peach and nectarine. This insect builds its populations through the growing season until finally it will attack ripe fruit. It may also attack apricots and almonds.

Pheromones are chemicals released into the air by one sex of an insect to attract the other sex so that mating is a sure thing. Pheromone traps use a capsule laced in pheromones that mimic this sex attractant. This capsule is placed inside a very sticky trap. The insect of opposite sex flies to this trap expecting to find a mate but gets stuck instead.

This is peach twig borer "worm" or larva in mature peach just harvested from the tree. This is the insect that is responsible for "wormy peaches". The adult is a small moth.

Pheromone traps were designed primarily to inform farmers when these bad insects were flying so that an appropriate pesticide could be applied exactly at the right time. Otherwise farmers are left to guess when to make these applications.

Coddling moth damage to apples or "wormy apples".

Under some circumstances pheromone traps can be placed in fruit trees to trick the opposite sex and catch them before they mate. If the pheromone trap is very effective at catching these insects then no insecticide needs to be applied. This type of insect control is sometimes called “mating disruption” or “trapping out” the problem insect.

Here is a winged trap for peach twig more hanging in a peach tree with the pheromone capsule located on the sticky bottom.

Pheromones are made for many different types of insects that are problems for farmers but the two insects I usually place pheromone traps out for in southern Nevada include the peach twig borer and coddling moth for apples, pears and quince. These will vary depending on where you live.

I prefer winged traps over the so-called Delta traps. I seem to get a better catch with the trap that is open on all sides.

This is the Delta pheromone trap. I think it works fine for detecting when the insect is present but I do not like it as much as the winged trap for mating disruption. I think the winged trap works better for mating disruption because it is open on all sides.

Even though it said it's not supposed to work, I have been very lucky trapping out both of these insects with lures and traps rather than applying insecticide sprays. I put my traps inside the Orchard perimeter so they get some protection from wind. I flood the area with the pheromone scent from these lures and it appears that they are confused enough that few find their mates.

Coddling moth damage on pear in Afghanistan. Damage is the same but the timing is different.

I start put out a single trap of each in about April in Las Vegas because I don't want to miss the first flight. However, I usually don't start catching them until about May. Their appearance coincides with heating degree days over a certain baseline temperature. These heating degree days can vary depending upon the weather so emergence can be earlier or later in some years. It also varies with the climate in your area.

Peach twig borer in the outer husk of almond. It usually does not get in the nut or kernel but can.

As soon as I start catching moths in the traps I immediately deploy the rest of them flood the area with this pheromone. I change out the sticky bottom once every two weeks or so and the lures are changed out monthly. I don't listen to closely to recommendations because they are for monitoring and not for mating disruption. Because I don't have hundreds of trees I choose to spend a little bit more money on lures and traps rather than pesticides and applying sprays.

I use one trap for about 20 to 25 trees. I replace the bottoms every couple weeks when trapping because of dirt and moths getting stuck in the traps and making them less sticky.

Buy enough sticky bottoms and lures to last from April until you harvest. Keep the lures in sealed plastic bags in the refrigerator until you are ready to use them. Technically you are not supposed to put them in the same refrigerator as food. Sticky bottoms and traps last from year to year but lures should be purchased fresh every year.

If you want a class on how to do this let me know and I will put one together.

Mechanical Control of Borers in Fruit Trees

I will usually take a very sharp, large knife and remove this loose bark and find out how much damage has been done by the borer.

Stems of Beans Devoured at the Base



Beans planted in cool soils can get collar rot or get devoured by cutworms

Q. I found a couple of beans in my garden that have been devoured at the base. Could it be some sort of soil born larva or possibly a virus?  Any ideas would be helpful. I did find one small white worm about a half of a centimeter long near the root about an inch away. 

 

A. It could be a couple of things. First, with cool weather and cool soils it might be collar rot disease that rots the stem at soil level. This will happen if you plant beans too early in cold soils. Some varieties of beans are more susceptible to this than others.

Most likely cutworm damage

            The first indicator is that some plants appear stunted and grow poorly.  I usually end up removing these plants and hope the weather warms up. 

            The other problem can be cutworms.  You should be spraying or dusting the soil surface around these plants with either Dipel or Thuricide, an organic pesticide.  This is the time of year you should be doing that anyway for a variety of pests in the vegetable garden.

Don't Kill the Green Lacewings By Accident!

Green lacewing adult. This is not my picture. I borrowed
it from somewhere on the internet and now cant find it. Sorry
to whoever owns it.

Q. I planted one of your bare root trees and it's doing fairly well.  This morning I noticed some pale green flying bugs on them.  They were too fast for me to get a picture but they are about 3/4" long with a 1/16" diameter body with fairly long legs.  The wings were almost transparent.  I've had a major problem with borers in the past and want to make sure these aren't going to kill my trees.  With that limited info can you guess at what they are and if treatment is needed?

A. I think this calls for some congratulations.  If I am seeing from your description, what you are seeing, and seeing it correctly, you have green lacewings; a fabulous addition to your fruit trees. 

This is my picture. Green lacewing egg on a
thin stalk elevated from the surface of a green
almond. Finding this on fruit or in the orchard
is a great sign it is organic.

         We have them at the orchard as well and it is primarily because we use so few pesticides and the pesticides that we do use are used in a way that helps preserve our beneficial insects like green lacewings and ladybird beetles are ladybugs they are sometimes called.  Both of these insects are voracious feeders on other insects like aphids for instance.  They can also do a number on other soft bodied pests. 

            Enjoy them. They are not good flyers but kind of flutter clumsily from place to place.  The voracious eaters are their immature forms. I am sending you pictures but I will post pictures of both the adults and juveniles on my blog because the adult and juvenile forms look nothing alike. You have to learn to identify both forms of these insects or you may make the mistake of thinking they are bad guys.

            So now it is up to you to be careful in using pesticides so that you can preserve populations of these insects to help you out. They will not impact your borer population unfortunately but they will help you in other ways and you can look forward in seeing these guys each year if you are careful in applying pesticides.

            That doesn’t mean you can’t apply any but you just have to be careful when and which ones you use. Even soap and water can kill these good guys, and will, if you apply it incorrectly.