Horticulture Newsletter for Northeast Clark County, Nevada

Those of you readers that are living in and around East Clark County, Nevada, might consider subscribing to a newsletter that was developed specifically for you by Nevada Cooperative Extension. I provided a link back to its source.


September Newsletter for Northeast Clark County, Nevada

Monthly Weather and ET Report from the UNCE Orchard

We had freezing temperatures at night on January 6 and 8th. Winds did not compound the problem. Humidity dropped to single digits twice during the month. No major rainfall events. ET was about 2. 4 inches during the month of January. Generally speaking, irrigation should have added about 2 inches of water in January, 2014.

The UNCE Orchard is located at 36 degrees North Latitude and 2000 ft (666 meters) elevation in the Mojave Desert.

The soil temperature was reset from 6 inch depth to 2 inch depth on January 21. This is why the range became so scattered starting January 21. If this scattering continues we will reset it a bit deeper. This temperature is used to estimate seeding dates for direct seeding into the raised beds.

Recommended Varieties of Almond, Pluot, Nectarine, Pear for Hot Desert Climates

Q. We have had several trees die over the past year so we are looking for replacements that will do well here.  We do have a Kiefer pear which produces really small, rock hard pears that never seem to ripen. Some suggestions please for almond, nectarine, pluot and apricot.

A. If I were to plant only one almond tree, it would be Garden Prince. It is smaller than the other almond varieties and the flower is a beautiful purplish white instead of plain white. For a home landscape that needs a smaller-sized tree, beautiful flowers and wonderful nuts, Garden Prince can't be beat. It is self-pollinating so doesn't need a second almond for pollination.

Almonds in bloom at UNCE orchard

            Arctic Star nectarine has a remarkable flavor in our climate. It is floral, buttery and one of the best fruits I have ever tasted. It makes wonderful sorbet. But you must remember that you will have problems with thrips with that will result in horrible scarring of the fruit if you don't keep it under control. It must be sprayed.

Nectarines at the UNCE Orchard.

            Remember that pluots require a pollinator tree for improved fruit set. A good pollinator for pluot is also a great plum for our area called Santa Rosa. If you already have a Santa Rosa plum or your neighbor does, you don't need a pollinator tree for pluot.

            Among the pluots, the best tasting in my opinion is Flavor Supreme. Second on my list would be Flavor King. The problem we have had with Flavor Supreme is low fruit production even with a pollinator. Flavor King has such a large fruit set, it must be thinned.

Flavor Supreme Pluot at the UNCE orchard

            The second problem with all pluots is our late spring freezes in the developmental fringes of our valley which are typically colder.

            When we get a freeze and they are in flower, you probably will not get any fruit that year. So expect fruit in two or three years out of every five if you live in these colder fringe areas of the Valley.

            A great apricot, that is not really an apricot but a cross between an apricot and plum, is the aprium. The fruit looks identical to and is marketed commercially as an apricot. It has flavor attributes of plum and apricot in the fruit. The best aprium out there is called Flavor Delight which will be available from the UNCE Orchard.

Flavor delight aprium 15 yrs old kept at 7 feet height at the UNCE Orchard

            Your Kiefer pear is very different from pears like Bartlett or d’Anjou which are desert pears. Desert pears will get soft and buttery in texture if you harvest them slightly early and let them ripen at room temperature off the tree. Kiefer pear is a salad pear that is also great for canning and used in stuffing for fowl like turkey or chicken.

Keiffer pear ready for harvest. Note the color change.

            Kiefer pear should be harvested just like you would a desert pear. To judge when to harvest I use a change in color of the fruit and smell. The fruit color will change from green to yellowish green and you will detect a distinct pear aroma from the fruit. They will still be hard when harvested.

Bartlett pear ready to be eaten and should not be harvested at this stage but earlier when there is still a hint of green

            You can also sacrifice a fruit and to cut it open and check the color of the seeds. They should be dark brown when the fruit is ready to harvest. But if you compare Kiefer pear with a desert pear, you will be very disappointed. They are both great, but in different ways.

Buffalograss an Alternative Grass for Southern Nevada

Q. Is Buffalograss an acceptable turfgrass for our climate?  I am aware its appearance is nothing like tall fescue or hybrid bermudagrass. We are looking for a grass-like look without the high-water use and also the medium to high maintenance that conventional turfgrass demand.

One of the improved Buffalograss varieties which compete with hybrid bermudagrass for looks in southern Nevada.

A. Actually the newer varieties of Buffalograss look as good as anything else. Buffalograss is similar in its growth to hybrid Bermuda since both are warm season grasses. In other words, both Buffalograss and hybrid bermudagrass will turn brown in the wintertime.

            Bermudagrass can be overseeded in the fall to maintain a green lawn during the winter. Buffalograss should not be overseeded.

            The newer Buffalograsses have come a long way but the problem is getting the good varieties locally. You would have to order out of state off of the Internet. I would use plugs rather than seed.

            Research done by Arizona State University has demonstrated that Buffalograss uses about the same amount of water as hybrid bermudagrass which is 25 to 40% less than tall fescue. So there would be no water savings over hybrid Bermuda if you were to plant Buffalograss.

            Buffalograss grows more slowly and requires less fertilizer than either tall fescue or hybrid bermudagrass. In fact, Buffalograss does not like nitrogen fertilizer and does more poorly if you fertilize it.

            The advantages of Buffalograss is that you don't have to mow it as often and it does not require, nor should it ever have, high levels of nitrogen fertilizer applied to it.

            You can purchase Buffalograss as plugs but make sure you get one of the newer varieties if you want a well-manicured look to your lawn.

Reputable online source for Buffalograss plugs
I would select University of California's Verde variety for the desert southwest or desert conditions in general.


The following is from a University of Nebraska publication by Terry Riordon

Vegetative Plugs and Sodding – Stand establishment with sod of improved turf-type buffalograss will decrease time required to cover the planted area. Plugs are helpful when early landscape aesthetics or soil stabilization are important.

Vegetative Plug Establishment – Plugs should be 2 inches or more in diameter with a minimum depth of 2.5 inches. Spacing between plugs can be varied, depending upon how quickly full coverage is desired. Vegetative plugs should not be placed further than 24 inches on center. If site conditions and preparation are less than optimal, reduce placement interval to provide a full stand within the first growing season.

During establishment, it is important to keep weeds to a minimum. Periodic mowing at a 2 to 3 inch height will help minimize weed competition.

Plug condition is important to establishing a successful stand. Plugs harvested from an established field, placed in trays, fertilized and watered in a greenhouse or under clear plastic for 4-8 weeks are called pre-rooted plugs. For early spring and summer plantings, pre-rooted plugs have been shown to establish more quickly than those not pre-rooted. Plugs harvested in March, pre-rooted and planted in May will, under proper growing conditions, establish an acceptable stand by fall.

Plugs not pre-rooted need 3-4 weeks to initiate growth and may not provide complete cover by fall. Newly harvested plugs may "go brown" after planting due to transplant shock. Proper establishment methods can help minimize this off-color period and insure good rooting of the plug. Applying a starter fertilizer at 1 lb of phosphorus and 1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft will aid in establishment and growth. Irrigation will not only help maintain active growth but also will decrease the length of time required for establishment.

Almond Nut Drop and When to Spray an Insecticide

Leaffooted plant bug on pomegranate with babies (nymphs)

Q. Several months ago you answered my question as to what was affecting the loss of all my almonds in my almond trees. You said I should apply the insecticide Sevin for pest control. But when do I apply the Sevin? My almonds are doing well now but they always do well now and then later I see something ozzing out of the nuts and a yellowish design on the inside. Then the nuts drop from the tree. So when do I spray with this insecticide?

A. If I told you to apply Sevin insecticide I must have thought you had leaf footed plant bug in your almonds. My personal philosophy is to use pesticides as a last resort for insect control whenever possible. This would be the only reason I would recommend the use of a pesticide in almonds.

            You would apply it when you see the insect present on the leaves. This insect has overwintered in yours or your neighbors landscape plants. I have seen them overwinter in our climate in these locations. When leaves emerge, this insect will begin feeding and laying eggs.    The first thing you will see are herds of the immature called nymphs on the undersides of leaves. You might see some adults as well but the babies are much more numerous. You should start to see them around late April or early May so start looking then. When you see them, begin spraying immediately according to the label mixing rate. Wear protective clothing.

Hardy Kiwis Will Grow in the Las Vegas Valley with the Right Location

Q. I recently purchased a male and female Hardy Kiwi starts form Parks Seed Company.  I was wondering if you might be able to give me any tips for growing them here in the Las Vegas Valley.  I have done some reading on pruning and training them into a trunk and building a T-trellis. In what I have read they need full sunlight but I  am of the mind that perhaps afternoon shade might be a bit better.

A Hardy Kiwi Trellis System

A. Good thinking. I would be of a similar mind that if you could protect it from late afternoon sun and strong winds you will be better off. Even though they are hardy kiwis and more tolerant of winter temperatures than standard kiwis they can still suffer from some cold damage if the temperatures get low enough. And they do get low enough in parts of the Valley to kill hardy kiwis.

            So a good location in the right microclimate is going to be paramount. They should still get a minimum of six hours of full sun each day. They must be planted in amended soil with good quality compost mixed in.

What Hardy Kiwi Looks Like

            I would highly recommend mulching them with wood mulch rather than bare soil or rock mulch. Keep the mulch away from the trunk at least 6 inches the first few years. If you can keep them in a warmer microclimate in the yard and out of strong cold winter winds will have success with them.