Viragrow Delivers! : How Much "Plant Tonic" Should I Apply to My Bushes...

Viragrow Delivers! : How Much "Plant Tonic" Should I Apply to My Bushes...: Q. We fertilize our bushes early spring and mid fall with a "plant tonic", a 5-10-5 liquid.  Hopefully this isn't too much n...

Viragrow Delivers! : Which Fertilizers Should I Use for My Fruit Trees?...

Viragrow Delivers! : Which Fertilizers Should I Use for My Fruit Trees?...: There are basically three types of fertilizers that you should pick from;  fertilizers with high phosphorus,  fertilizers with high ni...

Viragrow Delivers!

Pruning Roots of Plants Gives Added Control

Did you know that the roots of plants can be pruned? This is called root pruning and dramatically alters the root to shoot ratio of plants.

Root pruning, what is it?
As the name suggests, root pruning is the cutting of roots. It is done for different reasons than pruning the tops of plants. We have total access to the tops of plants. Axis to the roots of plants is much more limited. Roots grow differently from stems. Roots do not have buds. You can virtually cut anywhere on a root and it will "sucker" unlike many of the stems of trees and shrubs.

Why root prune?
The most common reasons for root pruning include controlling the size of the plant, slowing the growth of plants, initiate flowering, keep the roots closer to the trunk, keep the roots out of problem areas or creating problems.

This is a root pruning machine used in nursery practices for undercutting trees growing in the field under production.This machine is driven so that the young trees are undamaged as they pass under and between the tracks. The U-shaped blade is pulled behind this machine and undercuts the roots...root pruning... to make a bare root fruit tree that will transplant to the field with fewer losses. Photo taken by me at Dave Wilson Nursery www.davewilson.com 

Root pruning is commonly done in the nursery operations where trees and shrubs are grown to be transported for planting in a new location. Root pruning is common in bonsai to reduce the growth of plants and keep them small. Root pruning is done in some greenhouse operations for similar reasons to nursery operations.

If root pruning is not done and the top of the plant dies or is severely pruned back, then the top regrows again very quickly to its original size. Once it reaches this size, growth slows again. This is the plants way of reestablishing what we have called the root to shoot ratio of the plant. The plant "recognizes" the difference in size between the top growth and undisturbed root size. The plant directs its growth, the flow of carbohydrates and hormones, to the top of the plant at the expense of growth in the roots.

How can I use Root to shoot ratios?
If a plant is growing too rapidly and you want to slow it down, root prune it. Take a sharp shovel and sever the roots by pushing it through the soil and through the roots as deep as possible.

Do you want to keep the roots of plants from entering the septic tank or other problem areas? Root prune between the plant and the problem area. Root prune every 2 to 3 years.

Some diseases are transmitted from plant to plant when the roots fused together and what are called "root grafts". This commonly occurred in American elm with the transmission of Dutch elm disease. Root pruning can isolate plants from trees that are carrying the disease. If an Apple or Pear tree dies from fire blight, root prune the area around the dead tree to prevent the transmission of the disease through root grafts.

When Retrofitting trees and shrubs from a lawn area to drip irrigation, consider root pruning these trees and shrubs to generate roots closer to the trunk were the emitters are placed.

Having trouble with the tree flowering? Try root pruning to create a new root to shoot ratio that might slow the top growth and induce flowering.

How Many Days between Waterings in the Winter?

Q. I am not sure how long some of my trees can go without water during the winter. I have a mature Pepper, Mesquite and some palms that I have not watered for 10 days because of the cold temperatures. Is 10 days between watering okay?

A. 10 days between waterings should be no problem for trees and large shrubs provided they were given a deep watering prior to this. Deep rooted plants, like most trees and large shrubs, can go without water for a longer period of time than smaller plants. Deep watering means flooding the soil with water to a depth of 2 to 3 feet. If drip is used then making sure enough volume of water is applied to soak to a depth of 2 to 3 feet.

Applying water with drip emitters this close to the trunk is okay for the first couple of years. As this tree gets larger, more emitters will be placed underneath the canopy of this tree and further from the trunk. About half the area under the canopy should receive water. Apply enough water in a single application to wet the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 feet.

Many landscapes have small plants and big plants on the same circuit or valve. This means the small plants cannot be watered separately from the larger plants. The small plants require water more often. This forces the larger plants to be watered frequently even when they don’t require it. 

This twisted Acacia would be considered a desert tree. Putting a tree like this on an irrigation circuitFor desert plants gives greater flexibility when applying water. Applying water more often causes it to grow faster, larger and more dense. Applying water less often keeps it smaller, growing more slowly with fewer leaves.

Secondly, plants that do not originally grow in desert climates must be watered more often than plants which do. The mesquite and California pepper are both desert-type trees where water can be withheld for long periods of time with no problems. Palms are more shallow rooted and require water more often. But ten days is not too long for any of these plants during the winter.

In an ideal world the deeper rooted plants would be on a separate irrigation circuit or valve from shallow rooted plants. Deep rooted desert plants like acacia, palo verde and mesquite would be on a separate circuit from the other non desert deep rooted trees and shrubs. This gives you alot of flexibility in watering. 

Palo Verde is another desert tree whose growth can be managed by applying more or less water. Putting desert trees and shrubs on their own separate irrigation circuit gives you this type of flexibility.

The deep rooted plants would include trees and shrubs and deep-rooted woody perennials that die back each year such as Bougainvillea. The shallow rooted plants would include annuals and flowering perennials that die back each year like Lantana. Lawns should be on a separate circuit but could be tied into vegetables as long as the water could be turned off to vegetables between seasonal plantings. 

When to Harvest Oranges?

Q. My oranges are turning orange. How long should I wait before I harvest them.

Yes, oranges and other tender citrus will grow in Las Vegas but not without some careful considerations.

A. Oranges do not necessarily turn orange before they are ready. Orange color develops due to climate. In the tropics oranges remain green or green/yellow even when  they are ready to eat.

Fully ripe oranges in the Philippines. They do not turn orange because of the warm climate. The fruit above it is rambutan.

Orange color is induced in oranges that don’t develop good color using ethylene gas in closed rooms where orange color is important for marketing and sales. The best way is to pick one and try it. If sufficiently sweet, harvest the others or wait and harvest when needed during cold months but leaving them on the tree too long can reduce the number of flowers in the next cycle of fruit production. When they are ripe start removing them. Cut the stem close to the fruit, don't pull the fruit from the tree, for better storage life.

Handheld refractometer used for measuring total dissolved solids (sugar content) from the juice of fruits and vegetables.

A sophisticated method is to purchase a small handheld device called a refractometer and measure the sugar content. Maturity in fruit is usually a measure of the sugar content which the refractometer will read for you.

How Often to Water Fruit Trees in the Winter?

Q. Do you have any guidelines for watering fruit trees in the winter?  I cant find anything specific to winter watering on your web page. I have apricot, nectarine, apple, fig, pear, plum, cherry, peach, orange - planted spring 2015.  I am not expecting the apple or cherry to make any fruit yet, They are just ornamental. Pomegranite, jujube, lime, grapefruit I planted 3 years ago. Will deep watering once a month suffice for December - February?

Fruit tree with irrigation basin surrounding the trunk. Irrigation bubbler at the top right of the basin that allows 2 gallons of water to flow from it every minute. The basin must be level so that water flows evenly across its surface.Surrounding the trunk is rabbit protection.

A. Once a month is not even often enough for trees established for years in our warm winter desert climate. Once they have been established, trees established for one season might be closer to every two weeks during the winter. If the soil is very sandy, then once a week. Fruit trees surrounded by dry soils should be watered more often than trees in wet soils. Wet soils in the desert might happen if fruit trees are grown close to a lawn area, a wall that has irrigation applied on the other side of it, intercropped between the trees with other plants like vegetables or herbs.

Irrigation basins surrounding newly planted fruit trees that have been staked and mulched with wood chips. The screening around the trees is for rabbit protection which also keeps the wood mulch away from the trunk. If drip emitters were used, two emitters might be enough for the first 2 to 3 years. When they have reached 2 to 3 years old than increase the number of emitters to at least four.

Generally speaking, if there is a surface mulch of at least three inches, add one to two days in the summer and up to one week in the winter. Sandy soils require more frequent watering with smaller amounts applied. Desert soils should contain 50% compost at the time of planting. Fruit trees perform much better with wood mulches applied to the surface and require less frequent watering.

General Watering Schedule for Fruit Trees
Let me run down a general schedule of watering fruit trees that is ignoring rainfall since we only receive an average of 4 inches (10cm) or rain each year.

Newly planted in spring or fall during cool weather....2-3 days; winter 1 to 2 weeks depending on soil and mulch covering. After growing for one season then assume the trees are established.

Fruit trees established at least one season with fruit or nuts on the tree... Summer every three to four days depending on soil and mulch. Spring and fall, weekly. Winter every two weeks. Fruit trees that have been harvested can be watered less often.

How Should I Care for My Fairy Duster Plant?

Q. I'd appreciate some pointers on how to arce for fairy duster plant So it becomes healthier and a better looking shrub. Very little has been done because the bees are usually on it.

Fairy duster and honeybees

A. This plant is native to North and Central America growing in warm desert climates and soils. This tells you a little bit about how to manage it. This should tell you to not water every day. Plants like this are usually very susceptible to root rot so make sure the soil has been amended with compost before planting so that it improves drainage.

Fairy duster in the backyard of reader

It will tolerate desert soils as well as infrequent watering. At planting time I would amend the soil with about 25 to 50% compost and make the whole about three times wider than its container. I realize yours is already in the ground so watering and fertilizer applications are important to mention.

Do not water this plant too often. That will be the biggest mistake people make. Fertilize it lightly once in the very early spring around late January or February with a rose type fertilizer. The plant can get 3 feet wide and 3 feet tall in soils that have been amended with compost.

As long as it's in a sunny location you should see a profusion of blooms in the spring and summer months that attract bees, hummingbirds and night flying moths. Quail like to feed on seed from the seed pods. Rabbits like to browse on new growth.

You can clean up the plant in the early spring by removing dead leaves and stems. You will encourage more blooms if the plant is in a sunny location and flowers are removed before they begin to form seedpods.

Every Potting Soil Contains Fungus Gnats

Q. It seems no matter what brand, no matter where I buy my potting soil I have to bake it before I can use it.  If I don't, I get hundreds of tiny fly that hatch and swarm.  I put out water to catch and drown them. I spray insect oil on top of the soil several times a day. I'm so afraid I'll kill the plants.

A. Yes, fungus gnats are a big problem in potting soils and they can create damage to plant roots. They feed off of both decaying plant parts and soft, succulent living roots as well. Potting soil does not smell very good if you have to put it in your oven at 150° for 15 minutes to kill these nuisance critters.

The larvae can cause damage to new, tender roots of plants. If they are extremely happy in their environment they can multiply very rapidly and cause some severe damage. Besides that, they are pesky and a nuisance inside the house.

This is Garden Gourmet potting soil and I have never seen fungus gnats in this product. However, bagged potting soil that is not been heat treated will carry fungus gnats. This product sells for $5 for one cubic foot.

If potting soil is sterilized with a heat treatment by the manufacturer it should kill all of the fungus gnats. If the soil is introduced into an environment where there are fungus gnats present then it will get reinfested again.

Here is what the University of California says about them

They can be controlled with some organic pest control products; nematodes that go after these larvae and a bacterium which does the same thing. You should be able to find some of these products in your local nursery or garden center. I have never used them so I am reporting only what has been reported on the internet using these methods for fungus gnat control. However, cooking them does work.

Where to get beneficial nematodes
Where to get beneficial bacteria  It says for mosquito control but it is the same product used for fungus gnats and will be included on the label.

Another method is to sterilize this potting soil yourself by placing it moistened into a clear plastic bag in full sunlight and let it bake. Temperatures need to get up to about 160 F for at least 30 minutes for good control. Keep in mind that if you introduce this back in the environment where a fungus gnats are present and they will reinfest this sterilized potting soil. Another option is to apply pyrethrin to the soil and water it in.

When and How to Prune Lantana and Oleander?

Q. How and when should we prune our lantana and oleanders?

This is a Lantana I saw pruned by a local company. Leaving this much wood remaining will make it very "twiggy" at the base. You can actually prune it much closer to the ground in this.

You can see from this close-up that I took last February that suckering can occur much lower on the stems of Lantana. Don't be afraid to cut it close to the ground. Leave about 1 inch for suckering.

A. Both of these plants are pruned during the winter months since they both produce flowers on new growth during the summer months.

After pruning, apply a high nitrogen and high phosphorus fertilizer to push new leaf and stem growth and dark green color. The phosphorus will help to promote flowering. Flowering will not occur until the top growth is large enough and comes into balance with the existing root size. This is sometimes referred to as the root to shoot ratio.

 I would delay pruning them until late winter (late January) unless you don’t mind looking at "dead" space (the space is not occupied by anything). For lantana it normally freezes during winter months and you have a choice whether to leave the dead top of the plant in place or cut it down to the ground, leaving one inch of stems remaining to support the new growth beginning in February.

You can prune oleander close to the ground, just like Lantana. Cut it back to within 2 to 3 inches of the soil surface. This is the time of year to do it up until about the end of January when it begins to push new growth all by itself.

            Because the roots are fully grown, alive and healthy you will see very rapid growth in the spring. Fertilize the pruned plant in late January or early February to encourage new growth and flowers. Use a fertilizer that supports flowering plants such as a rose fertilizer blend or other fertilizer for flowering plants.

You can see from this picture that new growth is beginning to sucker from the base just like Lantana. Apply a fertilizer near the base of the plant close to a source of water. Use the same fertilizer as the Lantana. A rose type fertilizer is fine.

Oleander will regrow very quickly when cut back close to the ground, fertilized and watered. This was one month after pruning. Nitrogen in the fertilizer will push leaf and stem growth along with dark green color. Phosphorus in the fertilizer will push flower growth and flower size.

            Oleander is pruned at the same time of year as lantana because it also blooms on new growth, not older growth. You can chose to remove 1/3 of the plant by cutting these largest stems to the ground for renewed growth at the base or you can cut the entire plant to the ground and let it regrow. Your choice. Either way you will see luxurious growth and lots of flowers next year. Again use a fertilizer that supports flower growth and apply it early in the spring.

This is an example of a fertilizer that will push leaf and stem growth and dark green color. You would apply this immediately after pruning and water it in. A 10 pound bag sells locally for $7.95

This is an example of a fertilizer that it increases the number of flowers and their size. It should be applied about 4 to 6 weeks later. A 10 pound bag also sells for $7.95 .

Nopal Cactus Talk Thursday, Dec 3 Lorenzi Park

Mexicans call them Nopales or Nopalitos. The fruit they call Tunas. These edible cacti were under evaluation at the University Orchard in cooperation with the University of Sonora in Hermosillo.

Fruit or tunas of the nopal cactus under cultivation and evaluation at the University orchard

I will be giving a presentation to the Cactus and Succulent Society on how to grow them as a food crop Thursday night, December 3, at 630 pm at the Garden Clubs building located at Lorenzi Park off of Washington and Rancho.

Nopal cactus ..nopales...under cultivation and evaluation at the University orchard. This is an ideal size and thickness to use as fresh vegetable.

Apple Variety Testing for the Mojave Desert

Q. I've seen Yellow Newtown Pippin listed as Under Review in your recommended fruit varieties to grow in the desert. How has it done? I would love to have one if the quality is good here.

A. Here is a link to the recommended fruit variety list that I completed back in 2010. 
http://xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com/2015/11/special-fruit-tree-orders-no-longer.html

Apple Babe from Dave Wilson Nursery under evaluation in North Las Vegas Nevada

Fuji apple grown in North Las Vegas Nevada

Anna apple grown in North Las Vegas Nevada

When I left the University back in 2011 this program of fruit evaluation for desert environments was no longer continued. Fruit quality is very connected to the terrior or the local environment. This is nothing new and has been noted for many other crops where quality is a desired trait and useful in marketing.

I have not had a chance to evaluate this Apple yet. I like about five seasons of production to get a good evaluation. Just because a plant grows does not necessarily mean the fruit quality is high. Sometimes there is little you can do to influence the quality of a fruit if you do not have a suitable terrior it. 

Most people think that a good fruit is one that is large, has an appealing color and free from blemishes to be a "good" fruit. How wrong! There are too many variations because of the climate and weather. The chilling requirement is 800 to 1000 hours according to Dave Wilson Nursery. This may be somewhat problematic for production in the warm desert but not necessarily for fruit quality.

I will take a look at some of the information the orchard has gathered so far on this variety and let you know. I have not been involved so I hope that the three is still there, there are replications to account for variations and data has been recorded. It ripens a little bit before Granny Smith and a month or so before Pink Lady. It ripens during a time of the year when flavor should be good considering ONLY the time of year. 

More information on this and related varieties.

Texas Mountain Laurel Good Choice for Desert Landscapes

Blond Ambition Ornamental Grass Good for Las Vegas Landscapes

Why Did My House Plant Suddenly Begin Wilting?

Q. Suddenly, this plant started drooping and weI can't figure out why.  It's was a beautiful healthy plant until about a week ago when the branches started to bend/droop. We tried tying it up but this morning it was even worse.  Could the heat being on in the house be a factor?  We've had the plant for about seven years with no problems. Two other possible factors:  about a month ago we moved the plant from an inside wall to an outside wall near two windows; and about four months ago we re-potted it using a regular mix.

Plants that are drooping are wilting inside the house

A. I don't believe anything that happened a few months ago would have any direct bearing on this drooping. It has to be something that happened recently or that has been progressive. I'm assuming you've monitored the soil for moisture content by either using the pencil method or lifting it to determine its weight before irrigating.

My guess is the problem is at the root level or major stem or stems coming out of the soil. I'm guessing the roots. I would pull the plant out of the container as if you are repotting it. Remove the soil from around the roots and inspect the roots for damage. It is difficult to find repotting soil that is not free from fungus gnats. If there are insects feeding on the roots than this could be the problem.

If the soil is not draining like it should and root rot becomes a problem, then you would see this kind of reaction. I would repot it with a good potting soil, stake it, add some super thrive (I am not a big believer but at this point I would try anything) and see what happens.

Inexpensive soil moisture meter. Not terribly accurate but gives you a general idea if the soil is wet or not.

Monitor the soil moisture content carefully with a soil moisture meter you can get from the nursery for about eight dollars or use these other methods I mentioned to determine soil moisture content before you irrigate.

Correcting Oleanders with Leaves Browning Along the Edges

Q. We have one oleander approximately 2 years old and 4 new ones we purchased several weeks ago.  The older one (1st photo) and one of the new ones (2nd photo) have some leaves that are browning along the edges while the centers are still green; a few have tips that are browning too.  From what I've read, could the plants have leaf scorch or, "salt or boron toxicity"?

Two pictures sent in regarding oleander leaf scorch

A. You are right, this browning along the margin of oleander leaves, or leaf scorch as it is sometimes called, could result from a number of things.

One possibility is a bacterial disease that has been called Oleander Leaf Scorch. It is a bacterial disease which is rarer in plants than fungal diseases. This disease is carried from plant to plant by what we call "vectors". These vectors can be insects that feed on the "juices" of this plant or they can be transmitted by humans on pruning shears. This is why I am constantly reminding people to clean and disinfect their pruning equipment before they begin pruning and between plants if the plant they finished pruning appears to be "sick".

More information about oleander leaf scorch from the University of California

Leaf scorch can also because to buy a lack of water and excessive salts in the soil which can be made worse if plants do not get enough water. One particular salt that you have identified as a problem in our soils is boron. The other particularly troublesome salts contain sodium and chlorides. Salts that contain for plants, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and others can also cause leaf scorch if they are in excess. Fertilizer salts containing high levels of nitrogen can be particularly troublesome and cause plant damage if applied in excess, too close to the plant or when soils are dry.

What to do? Apply compost around the base of the plant and either wash it into the soil or lightly dig it into the upper surface of the soil.

Add more water. If you feel as if the plant is not receiving enough water, add more drip emitters. This is preferable to just increasing the number of minutes since everything watered by that valve will be affected. If you're fertilizing the plants, make sure the fertilizer salts that you apply are kept at least 12 inches from the trunk and applied near the emitters or bubbler. Make sure the soil does not become dry between irrigations because dry soils increase the concentration of salts already in the soil.

Lastly, cut the oleanders to the ground and let them re-grow from the base. If you apply more water, improve the soil and are careful with fertilizers and the plants still have leaf scorch during the next growing season, then dispose of them and to get new ones. Oleander leaf scorch will not be in the soil. It can only be transmitted from unhealthy plants to healthy plants either by insects or humans who are not careful about pruning.

Holes in Trees

Q. I have three pecan trees in the Moapa Valley area that has been attacked by something for the last six years after they were planted. It starts with small circular holes, 2 or 3 millimeters in diameter, in the bark.  This holes are often in a line extending horizontally across the trunk or limb.  Then the bark appears to be shredded in concentrated areas.  As the summer season progresses, the tree leaves slowly and progressively turn prematurely brown.  I never see any particular pest on the tree, just evidence of their presence by the damage they inflict.

This same problem seems to affect a plum and nectarine tree which are now dead. One of the trees was affected so badly that I cut the tree off just above the graft about 4 years ago.  It has regrown some limbs and has not yet shown evidence of new pest damage.  The other two pecan trees still show evidence of continuing damage.  I used the Bayer borer worm treatment two years in a row a few years back.  That seemed to help a little, but again, over time, the damage has been recurring. I think I am going to loose another tree soon and all of them eventually if I don't figure out how to fix the problem.  I'd be willing to try replanting all new trees if I could have some confidence that the problem would not reoccur.  Any information or advice you can offer will be appreciated. 

First picture showing bird damage

A. The first picture is for sure damage from birds in the woodpecker family, probably sapsuckers. The second picture is most likely the same but the damage is spaced so closely together it is more difficult to recognize. The third picture is some sort of "mechanical" damage, the same type of damage as the first two and I can only guess that it is from the same thing using the KISS principle.

Second picture showing bird damage very close together and causing a lot of damage

Most of these birds are migratory so you see their damage in the spring usually but it is also possible it is in the fall. I am no ornithologist but I understand their are some birds in this family that live in this area permanently. I only see this damage during migrations but maybe in your location it might be different.

Third picture doesn't show the bird damage as well but I'm guessing this is what is causing this kind of damage

I have had damage to fruit trees for dozens of years and the trees survive and don't seem to be bothered this much at all. I think the reason for that is they grow so rapidly that they recover from this damage quickly.

Williamson's sapsucker might be causing this kind of damage. I no longer have the photo credits for this picture but I took it from the web several years ago.

From the looks of the trees and the environment I can see in the pictures I think your trees are under a lot of stress. This may prevent them from recovering quickly from this damage. It is very important that trees that are damaged get enough water, fertilizer and soil enhancement so recovery is quick and not lingering into succeeding years. They must recover completely in one season of growth. They will do that if they are pushed to do so after the damage has been done.

Sapsucker damage to an Apple at the University Orchard

Each of these holes put into the tree from birds by their feeding must totally heal before the next season of damage. I don't think yours are doing that. Cover the soil beneath the trees with wood chips at least four inches deep and out to a distance equal to the ends of the branches. Water and apply fertilizer sufficiently after you see the damage to push the tree's recovery as quickly as possible.

If you can use a bubbler and basin instead of drip (if you are using drip irrigation) this might help. This will flood the area under the trees and deliver enough water for a quick recovery. Fertilize the trees in late January or February to get the trees into rapid growth before the damage occurs.

Bubbler and basin around a fruit tree with the basin covered in wood mulch

You can also try to put wire mesh around the tree or damaged areas of the trunk but the birds usually then go to limbs. But if you lose a limb at least you don't lose the tree.

Bees and the Care of Fairy Duster Plant

Q. Please help me identify the bees on this fairy duster shrub growing on the Eastern side of a Mesquite home. Additionally, I'd appreciate some pointers on how to help this plant become a healthier better looking shrub. Very little has been done because the bees are usually on it. The bees and I coexist with a healthy respect for each other. I'm hoping they are some type of honey bee.

Pictures of plant sent to me

A. Bees can be difficult to identify through just pictures and I am not an entomologist so it makes the problem worse. Size is probably the first clue to the type of bee. Next is the coloration. When we get into the general size of the honeybee it can get a little difficult whether these bees have been Africanized or if they are leaf cutter bees.

Basil and leaf cutter bee

The other category is whether they are social bees or solitary bees like the leaf cutter. Nearly all of the bees are beneficial whether they make honey or not just because they are our best pollinators. Some bees can be a problem such as the Africanized honey bee or leaf cutter bees.

Bee swarm in a fruit tree

If honeybees have been Africanized they can be aggressive and dangerous. This is the only be that we would consider to be truly dangerous. Other bees of this size like the leaf cutter bee can be a nuisance because it cut circles out of the leaves of some plants such as basil, roses, lilac, bougainvillea and others. Normally these leaves are soft and easily cut by the leaf cutter bee so the female can use it for nesting. Solitary bees normally do not make honey that we can collect. Social bees are the honey makers.

Regardless, all of the bees you are seeing there are friendly and beneficial.

Pollinating peach flower

Fairy duster plant is native to North and Central America growing in warm desert climates and soils. This tells you a little bit about how to manage it. It will tolerate desert soils as well as infrequent watering.

At planting time I would amend the soil with about 25 to 50% compost and make the whole about three times wider than its container. I realize yours is already in the ground so watering and fertilizer applications are important to mention.

Do not water this plant too often. That will be the biggest mistake people make.Fertilize it lightly once in the very early spring around late January or February with a rose type fertilizer. The plant can get 3 feet wide and 3 feet tall in soils that have been amended with compost.

As long as it's in a sunny location you should see a profusion of blooms in the spring and summer months that attract bees, hummingbirds and night flying moths. Quail like to feed on seed from the seed pods. Rabbits like to browse on new growth.

You can clean up the plant in the early spring by removing dead leaves and stems. You will encourage more blooms if the plant is in a sunny location and flowers are removed before they begin to form seedpods.

Chinese Pistache Growing Poorly

Q. A nursery planted my tree in spring (May I think) it has sap running in several places from the trunk. Also the leaves seem to have some disease, but the new leaves at the base of the trunk look great.  I have looked on the internet but could find an answer.  It looks like it's dying.  What is your prognoses - see attached photos taken today.

Trunk of this Chinese Pistache

A. I looked at the pictures of the pistache tree that you sent to me. The pictures make me think it is water related. Your Chinese pistache is probably a grafted tree. A graft is used to attach two plants together; one which will become the roots and the other becomes the trunk and top of the tree. If you look at the trunk of the tree a few inches above the soil you should see a slight "crook" or bend in an otherwise straight trunk. This bend is where the graft took place which joined the two young trees together.

Picture of leaf sent in

This is important to find. If the new leaves you mentioned at the base of the trunk are coming from below this crook or bend then the tree is "suckering" from the plant grafted for the roots. This is a very good indication that the top part of the tree has been damaged or is under a lot of stress. Normally, this is not a good sign and you don't want this type of growth to continue. You would remove this growth from the trunk and is close to the trunk as possible. If you leave any short stubs after you remove these suckers then growth from this area is likely to return.

Base of trunk showing new growth

What caused this? This is where I go out on a limb, no pun intended. Nine times out of 10 this is related to some sort of watering issue. I am going to guess and say it's not getting enough water. If this was a 24 inch boxed tree you should be delivering about 15 to 20 gallons of water each time you water. I am guessing this tree is on drip irrigation. I can't tell you how many minutes this would be because that will depend on how much water these emitters are delivering. A tree of this size should have a minimum of four drip emitters spaced in a square pattern about 18 inches from the trunk. If I am correct, you should be able to correct this problem by building a basin or bowl around the trunk about 3 feet in diameter and 6 to 8 inches tall. You would use a hose and fill this basin with water completely once a month during the winter months. When things begin to warm up in about March you might do this every two weeks. Once you hit may you should be doing it weekly.

Chinese pistache shown in its location

Another possibility could be that it is receiving too much water. If you are watering daily and delivering a lot of water through those drip emitters than it is possible the roots are suffocating because of too much water. I tend to believe it's not enough judging from how the tree reacted.

What to do? Build that basin around the tree that I mentioned earlier. Fill this basin with water from a hose twice. Remove the suckers from the tree as I described. If you think there are not enough emitters, add emitters around the tree or find some way to deliver a higher volume of water if you are only watering a few minutes. You won't see much of a reaction from this tree to these improvements until next spring and summer. Remember, do not water daily. When you do water, give it a lot of water and wait a few days between irrigations during the summer months.

Philippine Government Officials Visit Las Vegas on Agritourism

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Release Date: November 30, 2015

Kill Date: December 19, 2015

Contact: Robert Morris, 702.630-5173; 702.610-5035

E-mail:  extremehort@aol.com

Las Vegas Visits Impact Philippine Agri-Tourism

Las Vegas – With 32 million credited to the Las Vegas tourism count through September, no one thinks about the agricultural side of the gaming industry. No one thinks of Las Vegas as a place to grow food. They do in the Philippines. Their reasoning: visitors have to eat and the restaurant scene is changing rapidly.

        Three government officials representing the Philippine Department of Agriculture recently took note of changes they predict will impact agri-tourism in the Philippines. Most notable is how government involvement can foster or hinder development of this new industry.

      The restaurant industry has marketed itself differently in Las Vegas during the past decade paralleling consumer demand. These changes are trending internationally as well. Themed restaurants have emerged which embrace the locally grown food trend, eating healthy and growth of farmers markets.

        Philippine government representatives visited several producers of local food in Las Vegas. Here they learned about enticements and barriers producers experienced working with local government agencies to bring locally grown food to area restaurants frequented by tourists.

          In a recently published Restaurant Business Online survey, 15 of the top 100 restaurants in gross food and beverage sales are located in Las Vegas. The number one restaurant grossed $47 million in 2014. Tourists visiting Las Vegas spent over 60% of their tourism dollars on food and drink. This equated to about 70% of their gambling budget.

        The Philippines is poised to become the next most attractive gambling hub in Asia given its proximity to a range of key tourism markets.  It attracts over 4 million visitors each year with a 40% increase in tourism over the past three years and expected to climb dramatically. Dramatic increases are attributed to increased gaming restrictions in Macau, the world’s largest gaming destination, and the shrinking Chinese economy.

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Robert Morris is an Emeritus Professor with the University of Nevada, Reno and retired Horticulture Specialist with Nevada Cooperative Extension. He is local and international horticulture consultant who contributes weekly with his own byline to the Las Vegas Review Journal. Visit www.xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com

If you would like more information about this topic or schedule an interview with Bob please call him at (702) 630-5173 or email him at Extremehort@aol.com

Leaves Remain on Trees If Weather is not Cold

Q. I have two dwarf peach trees. They are still loaded with leaves. What can I do about it?

A. Nothing. Just let them drop normally. One good night of near freezing or freezing temperatures and they will drop. Prune them in mid to late January.

Normal fall leaf drop on peach

            Another method you can use to drop the leaves is to begin restricting water to the tree. If it’s possible, turn off the drip emitters or bubbler to the tree for a couple of weeks. You will not hurt the tree and you will encourage leaf drop. When the leaves begin to turn yellow resume your irrigations.