Soil Testing for Homeowners

Should I have my soil tested? 

A soil test done by a commercial laboratory like A and L Soil Testing Laboratory in Modesto, California, costs from $60-$75. It’s important that a soil test is submitted to a soil testing laboratory that uses appropriate testing. In other words, if you live in the desert don’t send it to a soil testing laboratory that’s in a wet climate.

Sample Soil Test Report for Fruit Trees in the Desert

Soil tests are mostly about what fertilizers and soil amendments should be applied to get a desired yield. I was in in the former Soviet Union years ago when a member of Parliament once asked me, “What is the maximum wheat yield in the United States?” I told him, “US farmers don’t maximize yields. They maximize profits.” Soil tests help farmers “maximize their profits".

Soil Chemistry

Soil tests are primarily aimed at a “soil’s chemistry” to aid a famers profitability. Soil tests will not tell you why a plant died, or chemicals added to the soil that killed a plant. An agricultural soil test won’t tell you that. Those tests can be done, however, but are much more expensive and requires a consultant to guide you.

How Often?

What good are soil tests to a homeowner and when should they be done? A serious gardener should submit a soil sample as soon as new property or growing area is purchased. A “first time” soil test establishes a “baseline” and tells you at the beginning what’s adequate about your soil chemistry and what’s missing. After that a soil test is submitted by homeowners about every four or five years to make sure “they are on track” with their fertilizer and soil amendment applications.

This is a soil test done by a homeowner. Garbage in, garbage out. I learned a long time ago to be careful sending soil samples in for analysis or doing it yourself. Luckily, this soil test matches what a desert soil sample report might look like.

Soil Samples or Sample?

Soil tests are a smaller sample of a larger soil sample taken from the top of the soil to the depth plant roots grow. Several smaller samples representing this depth are added together. A very clean five-gallon bucket is used for mixing the larger soil sample so that a smaller sample, a pound or so, can be submitted for testing. Expect results in about a week after they received your sample. If you’re having trouble interpreting them, hire a consultant the first time so that you are taught how to read them.

Slime Mold Found After or During the Rain

Q. About 2 weeks ago I noticed a strange growth at the base of several different plants. The largest was about 4"x6" and shaped like a smooth, white, used bar of soap; slightly moist and slippery on the outside and like a semi-hard cheese on the inside. It seemed like it was attached to the soil but was also around the stems and branches that came out of the ground.  It broke into slightly smaller pieces as I worked it out of the soil. What is it and what do I do to remove it?

Reader didn't send a picture. This is slime mold in Las Vegas after a rain. Rain will contribute to their growth when there is a lot of rain.

Slime molds are a type of mushroom or fungus. They can come in lots of different colors and forms.

A. Without a picture it is difficult to tell but it sounds like it is “slime mold.”  Search it out. 

Slime Mold

Slime mold is a type of fungus, or mushroom, which does not cause problems for plants. It is what is called a “saprophyte” and feeds on moist or wet dead wood or woody debris. It feeds on the rotting wood below the surface of wet soil. We see that a lot in soils covered in wood chips, or woody compost used for enriching the soil, buried rotting wood in the soil and even dead or dying roots. It is a plant that is a “decomposer.”

Use a shovel and pick it up and put it in the garbage so the dog or kids don’t get into it. No other treatment is necessary. One person reported a rash from it so be careful in case you are in this minority.

Homeowner Forced to Water With a Hose

Q. I have emailed you before about having only one watering zone. Our lemon tree seems to be doing worse every year. With only one irrigation zone unfortunately I am forced to water every day in the summer.  We decided we should water these citrus trees by hand. So, we have two questions please: How much water per watering and how often?

Homeowner Forced to Water with a Hose

A. Looks like fake grass was installed surrounding the tree. It is too perfect. This may be a problem in future years due to numerous soil problems, primarily air reaching the tree roots and compaction from people walking near it. Pull the fake grass away from the tree to the size of the canopy. It is important that plant roots breathe air. Some types of fake grass are better at that than others. Make sure enough air is getting to plant roots.

How To Hand Water Citrus

 Start watering this tree now with about fifteen gallons each time (judging its size from your picture). As the tree increases in size it needs more water; probably about every three or four years the area under the tree canopy will need to become bigger to give it this. The tree will max out at about thirty gallons each time it is watered. When an increase in water is needed, remove more grass, to accommodate the amount of water applied. The easiest way to give the tree more water and keep it from falling over will be to increase the size of the area where water is applied to at least half the area of the canopy.

Use Moat or Donut

This is a basin at the bottom of a fruit tree in North Las Vegas. Both basin and bubbler..which this is..and drip irrigation are both efficient at this.

Use a moat or donut shaped basin around the tree for filling each time with a hose. The basin, and the inside being flat, will hold water long enough to get it deeper in the soil. If the tree does not have a moat or donut around it, it is difficult to put enough water in that spot to wet the soil eighteen inches deep each time. Just putting a hose on it will not work unless you water with a sprinkler or let the hose run slow a long time. Using a moat or donut will fill the basin with water in about ten minutes or less and keep it contained.

HOA Removing Bay Laurel Trees

Q. Our sweet bay laurel trees face East and are watered by a drip irrigation system on a separate line for trees only. Obviously, these trees are not doing well. They were originally 24” boxed trees planted in 2013. Our HOA contends they are close to the end of their lives, and they will be removed. Any ideas?

Bay Laurel Trees HOA Wants to Remove

A. From the picture you sent (above) the leaves exposed to the heat of the sun are scorching along the edges. This means not enough water is getting to them either because there is not enough water supplied to the trees or there is damage to the trunk or limbs.

Bay laurel trees struggle when temperatures are very hot (over 105F) and there is very low humidity. Particularly if it is windy. They are treated like desert trees, but they are not. They are a “mesic” tree, not “xeric”, coming originally from the Mediterranean area of the world, and not a true desert tree like the Palo Verdes, Desert Willow, Texas Mountain Laurel, or any trees native to our Southwest deserts.

Big trees use more water than smaller trees

As trees get larger, they require more water. As these trees get larger more drip emitters must be added to give them the water they need. You could increase the number of minutes but then everything on that “line” or valve would get an increase in water as well. There are other alternatives but adding more drip emitters is the most common.

I would guess trees would need more water applied (change in the water applied) every three or four years until they reach maturity. It is better to add drip emitters to those plants getting larger than just adding more time; either is a challenge for HOAs as the cost of water increases and they are still trying to contain costs.

Ways to Reduce Trees Need for Water

There are three ways to reduce their need for water; 1) reduce their size as well as and other large plants, 2) reduce the total number of trees and shrubs, and 3) change over to desert native plants like I mentioned above. Doing any of the three does not reduce water used. Water used, irrigation, is a human landscape decision. Changes in irrigation management, as well as monitoring water applied to the soil, must be done by the landscapers.

In the desert all plants use water. Think of ways to beautify your landscape that does not include water. We cannot have a landscape full of trees and shrubs in the Mojave Desert. It doesn't make sense. Plants must have a purpose if they get water.

Canary Island Date Palm Problems

Q. I have a Canary Date Palm that developed yellowing leaves last year. I planted this palm about 10 years ago in my landscape.

Canary Island Date Palm

A. The proper name is Canary Island Date Palm. Eliminate simple possibilities first. 

Water and drainage

Make sure whatever method you are using to irrigate the tree has not changed because of a broken irrigation line or malfunctioning irrigation emitters. Check the soil around the tree to make sure it’s not still wet before it is irrigated the next time.

The soil at four or 5 inches deep should still be starting to dry when you water again. Watering cycles of palms is similar to other large trees on your property and not to other locations like lawns, flowerbeds that require frequent irrigation. Watering palm trees as frequently as you would these locations would be a mistake.

Fertilize with a palm fertilizer

Palm nutrient deficiencies such as potassium, magnesium or manganese deficiencies can cause yellowing as well. Use a palm tree fertilizer such as Arizona’s Best the next time this palm tree is fertilized.

Disease Possibilities

There are a couple of disease possibilities that have not yet, to my knowledge, been diagnosed in southern Nevada. Three palm diseases have been noted in Southern California on this Palm. The only disease which causes fronds to yellow on Canary Island Date Palm is Fusarium Wilt. This disease can be spread from tree to tree through pruning tools. Wiping or spraying the cutting blades of pruning tools with at least 70 – 90 % isopropyl alcohol will effectively keep the disease from being spread due to a lack of sanitation to other palms.

Anyone pruning these palms should never use dirty tools. Tools should be cleaned with soap and water first and then sanitized before pruning begins.

USDA Publishes Proposed Organic Livestock Rule

 

USDA Publishes Organic Livestock and Poultry Standards Proposed Rule 60-Day Comment Period Opens with Publication Today, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) previewed the Organic Livestock and Poultry Standards (OLPS) proposed rule in the Federal Register. With this publication, USDA proposes requirements for organic poultry and livestock living conditions, care, transport, and slaughter. “This proposed Organic Livestock and Poultry Standards rule demonstrates USDA’s strong commitment to America’s organic producers,” said Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack. “We encourage producers, processors, and consumers to submit written comments about the rule so that we can work together to create a fairer, more competitive, and transparent food system.” “This rulemaking is an opportunity to ensure consumers’ expectations align with the enforced organic standards, building trust across the supply chain and leveling the playing field for producers,” said Under Secretary for Marketing and Regulatory Programs Jenny Lester Moffitt. “With this proposed rule, USDA is seeking to establish and clarify clear standards for organic livestock and poultry production.” When finalized, USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) will oversee the rule’s implementation. Read the full USDA Press Release. NOP will also host a public webinar listening session on August 19, 2022, to hear oral comments on the proposed rule. Learn more at the link below.  View the OLPS Proposed Rule Includes links to the Federal Register announcement, how to access the webinar, submitting written comments, and signing up to make oral comments at the webinar. How to Submit an Effective Comment   NOP has a microlearning module (linked below) that provides guidance on how to write an effective public comment. Effective comments help others understand your perspective and how proposals will impact your organic farm or business. This helps USDA best balance needs across impacted participants in the organic market.