Q. I wonder if you can help me diagnose a problem with my
camellia, the variety is "Marie Bracey". I had it in a container
while it was young and my husband moved it for me to our back yard where it
gets the morning sun and afternoon shade which is what the card read that was
attached. It was growing fine but now there are about 30 leaves that have brown tips. Another
question, the card says to cut back after flowering, which has not happened yet
but it does not explain how to cut it and to what level.
A. You are fighting an “uphill battle” growing camellias
in the Las Vegas valley since they require similar conditions to azaleas and
rhododendrons. Not that you can’t do it
but it will take quite a bit of care on your part.
There
are camellia societies, the counterparts to rose societies, on the southern
east coastal areas and west coastal areas and inland in northern California.
You have the Japanese camellia type. These plants are medium to large shrubs
and even trees so it may take some time for it to get big enough to flower.
Link to International Camelia Society
Link to American Camelia Society
Nice link to information and pictures of Camelias
Another
camellia I know you are familiar with is Chinese camellia, the plant that is
used to make teas like black teas, green teas and Oolongs. So this plant does
not come from the desert parts of the world. This will give you some insight as
to what you will have to do; improve the soil a lot and give it some protection
from the harsh desert environment.
You did
that by following the card attached to it. But just a warning. That card was
not intended for Las Vegas but for more friendly camellia environments so you
may need to take what it says a step further. Even morning sun may be too
intense for it if it extends into late morning and thus contribute to the
browning of the leaf edges.
Other
things that can contribute to leaf scorch are the poor soil conditions we have
and the salty water coming from Lake Mead to our taps. Those people with well
water frequently have much better water than the water coming from our taps.
Another
problem you will most likely have will be yellowing leaves. Camellias like the
soil to be slightly acid and our soils are not. This will mean that iron will
be tough for the plant to get in a form it can use.
The only
way to provide that kind of iron is to make the soil more acid or give it iron
in a form it can use. Lots of decayed or decaying organic material will help in
the soil around the roots and on the soil surface on top of the roots.
Sulfur
applications will also help but the sulfur should be pulverized into a powder,
not like little rocks if it is to be effective. So usually the more effective
way to apply iron so the plant can use it is to use chelates. Like the broken
record I am, the chelate EDDHA combined with the iron is the most effective way
for iron to reach the plants in our soils.
So what
to do? Make sure the plant had lots of GOOD compost mixed into the soil at
planting time. I would also put some sulfur with that planting soil. If you are
not sure, replant it carefully this fall around the first week of October.
Mulch
the soil surface with organic or wood mulch. This is very important with
camellia since it has a very shallow root system. Make sure the soil drains
easily. Find a place that gives it early morning sun and not late morning sun,
out of strong winds and not near a hot wall. Filtered light from a tree that
allows scattered light on the ground with plenty of air movement (but not
strong wind) would even be better but not total shade.
Next
spring after all danger of frost has passed (usually around the first to the
middle of March) fertilize the plant with an azalea or rose fertilizer and add
iron chelate as well. Expect that your camellia will not be picture perfect
since it is not growing in an ideal climate and soil. Contact me next spring
and let me know how it is doing and we can take it to the next step.
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