A. The usual problem is not watering at the right time and keeping the soil moist during production of fruit. We can get two
good crops of figs here. The first one is called the Briba crop and is borne on
last year’s wood (2013 growth).
This is the Briba crop. Notice how the figs are developing on older, brown wood from last year. You can see the new growth pushing from the terminal bud, is green and about two inches long. |
The
second crop is the Main crop and grows on the current season wood (2014
growth). If the tree is pruned or last years wood is killed by freezing
weather, you will only get a main crop.
The main
crop occurs when it gets hot and if the tree is not getting enough water the
figs will get button sized, get hard and drop off. There is a potential third
crop in about September and October but the weather does not stay warm enough
in the fall for it to mature.
This
third crop will get button sized and will fail to develop due to winter weather
coming in. That third crop may form without the summer crop if the tree is not
getting enough water. Then in the fall it is getting enough and tries to set
fruit but it is too late and fails.
I would
mulch around the tree with about four inches of wood mulch and cover the soil
to a distance of about six feet from the trunk. Water in a basin around the
trunk about six feet in diameter.
The
basin should be able to hold at least two inches of water but four would be
better. Fill the basin with water each time you irrigate. Water once a week
now, twice a week in May, three times a week in June, drop it to twice a week
in September and once a week mid October.
Once the
leaves fall off in winter you can water about every 10 to 14 days. Fertilize
once in February with a fruit tree fertilizer or four fertilizer stakes per
tree, one in each quadrant of the irrigation basin.
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