Q. About three weeks ago I bought
and planted a 12 X12 crepe myrtle
tree. I used grow mulch and compost watering it once a day since
then. Now the tree branches seem to be losing its leaves. Could I be over
watering the tree? What could you suggest I do to make sure the tree
grows healthy?
Small crepe Myrtle tree, Not the readers |
Plant got too dry at the nursery before it was
delivered
- Plant was delivered in an open truck and the leaves were battered by the wind
- Plant got too dry before it was put in the ground
- Plant was put into a dry hole and the roots became desiccated or dried out for water was applied. This can happen in minutes.
- Plant root ball fell apart when it was put into the planting holeSalt levels were too high in the soil or the planting mix or both and not leached with enough water at the time of planting
- Watering daily after it was planted
- Not watering often enough or with enough water after it was planted
At the time of planting, the soil in the hole, and all of
its contents, should be wet. The soil should be checked to make sure that it
drains several inches of water in no more than a few hours. If the soil drains
adequately, the hole needs to be dug no deeper than the box.
In our desert soils with extremely low organic matter, it is best to use the soil that was
dug from the hole and amend it with a planter mix amendment in a ratio of about
1:1 by volume. To help prevent transplant shock the tree should be planted as
soon as humanly possible after delivery.
To help prevent transplant shock
further the tree should be planted into a hole that was wet and allowed to
drain. The wooden box must be removed from around the root ball at the time of
planting.
This is done by leaning the tree
over on its side, removing the bottom of the wooden box, pushing it back to an
upright position, lowering it carefully into the hole, removing the rest of the
box, and adding the backfill.
As the amended backfill soil is
added to the hole, water from a hose should be running into the planting hole
keeping everything inside wet. After planting, a donut shaped basin 4 inches
high should be constructed around the perimeter of the planting hole.
Fill this basin twice every time
you irrigate for the first two weeks after planting. Fill the basin
approximately every three days. I would not rely on a drip irrigation system
for delivering the water needed by the tree immediately after planting.
After 2 to 3 weeks you can begin to
wean the tree from water applied by the hose and begin to integrate your drip
irrigation into your watering cycle. You would do this by putting the drip
irrigation on a normal schedule for landscape trees in our climate and continue
to fill the basin once a week to supplement the drip irrigation and removal of
any high levels of salts from the soils.
Some landscape companies leave the
drip irrigation to come on daily to try and accomplish the same thing but that
can be dangerous because they don't tell the homeowner to reset the clock or they forget to reset it themselves.
Three things you must regulate when
you irrigate:
how much you apply at each irrigation,
how often the irrigation
is applied and
the time of day water is applied.
Make sure your drip irrigation
system is applying enough water every time it comes on.
It is difficult to tell you the
number of minutes this equals without knowing the number of drip emitters and
their gallons per hour rates of water application. The other thing needed is
the size of the tree; its height and the size of its container.
How often your irrigation system
delivers water depends on the time of year and the type of plant. Trees and
large shrubs are watered less often than anything else in the landscape. This
time of year we are beginning to cool so applying water twice a week, as long
is it is enough water, will be often enough.
Time of day the application is made
is the least critical feature. However, ideally the irrigation should come on
just prior to the heat of the day.
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