Q.
My tomatoes are wilting. I don't think I
am over watering or under watering them.
Besides they like water, don't they?
Fertilizers like this 6 – 20 – 20 make a good starter fertilizer because of its high phosphorus content (middle 20) and relatively low nitrogen content (6), |
A.
Sometimes we see vegetables like tomatoes wilt during midday when it is hot and
the plant roots cannot supply the water needed by its leaves. The plant recovers
(stops wilting) during the cooler part of the day.
About 40% of the water needed by plants
comes from the top 25% of its root system. Plants wilt midday particularly if the
size and depth of its roots are inadequate compared to its top.
When first transplanting tomato plants
into the ground, bury the roots about 3 to 4 inches below the surface of
amended garden soil. This means digging the hole for the transplant 3 to 4
inches deeper than the container.
Before planting, remove enough of the bottom
leaves so these leaves are not buried in the soil. Ideally, wait 24 hours after
removing the leaves before planting. It is best if fresh damage to the stem
made by removing leaves is not below ground.
Once the roots are placed this deep,
amended soil fills the planting hole and is watered in.
Amended soil should contain fresh compost and a starter fertilizer high in
phosphorus (the middle number). Tomatoes
are somewhat unique in the vegetable world because they will grow new roots from
the portion of the stem underground.
Horse bedding made from pine shavings makes a very good surface mulch for vegetables because it decomposes easily at the end of a growing season. |
This type of planting technique provides
for a deeper and larger root system capable of supplying more water and nutrients to the
plant. This can be particularly important with home gardeners who tend to “push”
the growth of their tomato plants with heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizers.
A word of caution. The soil used when planting deep must be amended
so that it drains easily.
Mulches applied to the soil surface help
to reduce wilting. These surface mulches should easily decompose in soil used
for growing vegetables.
Personally, I prefer horse bedding made from wood shavings to most other types of mulches. It decomposes easily in the soil at the end of a growing season and contains no weed seed. Other types of mulches include straw and shredded paper.
Personally, I prefer horse bedding made from wood shavings to most other types of mulches. It decomposes easily in the soil at the end of a growing season and contains no weed seed. Other types of mulches include straw and shredded paper.
I have shifted to horse bedding because it is usually cheaper and works better than straw.
The one I'm using right now I'm getting from Viragrow in Las Vegas and runs about seven or
eight dollars for a 4 cubic foot bag.
I take handfuls of this and drop it on
either side of my transplants so it covers the soil with about a 2 inch layer
of horse bedding. The horse bedding is pine shavings and it decomposes very
easily into garden soil at the end of a growing season which straw does not do as easily. It does not blow easily either.
Hopefully you amended your soil to
encourage deeper rooting. Garden soils should be amended each year with about a
1 to 2 inch layer of compost and double dug 6 to 8 inches deep. I would try the
horse bedding and see if that helps.
".... Tomatoes are somewhat unique in the vegetable world because they will grow new roots from the portion of the stem underground...."
ReplyDeleteWow, I learned several new things form this post! Is theabove true for other members of the Solanaceae as well, or just tomatoes?
It is true with members of this family in varying degrees. One member that sends out side shoots underground easily is potato. This is why we mound soil around the stems of potato plants after about one month of new growth. Mounding soil against the stems sends out underground stems that form potato tubers. It is true to a lesser degree and not as beneficial in peppers and eggplant, also solanaceous plants. We can cut the sucker growth from tomato and it will root very easily in soil and we can start entirely new plants just from the suckers which we normally cut off anyway. Use a well drained potting soil, remove the suckers with a sharp knife, remove the bottom leaves leaving just the small newest leaves, make a hole in the potting soil with a pencil, stick the fresh sucker into the soil, burying most of the stem, water it and put it in the shade to root. Keep the soil moist. They will root rapidly. Not as easy to do with pepper and eggplant but it is possible as well.
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