A. Why are you still watering 3 times a day for 3 minutes
each time? This might be okay for the first couple of weeks after laying the
sod but those times should change.
Your irrigation schedule during the heat of the summer
should be once a day for a total of about 12 to 15 minutes if you are using
pop-up sprinklers. The actual number of minutes depends on the precipitation
rate and spacing of the sprinklers.
These are determined by the type of nozzle, pressure used
and irrigation design. Poorly designed irrigation systems require more minutes
than well-designed systems.
With head to head coverage the water from a sprinkler is thrown far enough to reach the neighboring sprinklers |
The best time to water a lawn are the hours just before
sunrise when the wind is calm. If you can't water for 12 to 15 minutes all at
once because of puddling or water runoff, break your irrigation times into
smaller increments, each about one hour apart.
Aerifiers punch holes in a lawn for better water and air movement to grass roots. |
Get all of the water the lawn needs for that day into the
soil during the early morning hours. The lawn can "drink" from this reservoir
of soil water until the next irrigation.
Aerify the lawn with a
core aerator 2 or 3 times a year until you can water the lawn for longer and
longer periods of time without puddling or runoff. After aerating a few times,
you should be able to easily wet the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches each
time you irrigate.Lawn grass root development after aerifying |
Readers picture of the remaining grass in his long |
Follow-up question:
Q. laid the sod in April and
was worried that it was a bit too hot but it took root and was flourishing.
The sod is a raised bed on 4 inches of topsoil from Star nursery over the
local clay which I tilled. I dug a "core" of grass that
recently died and had some living grass as well. The living grass is
still rooted strong but the dead grass pulls out very easily. I don't see
any bugs. I was unaware of the proper watering and will adjust
accordingly. Do you think there's any saving this lawn or do I
need to re-sod? If so, I'm assuming mid-October is preferred for Tall Fescue.
Also, for the first few months I was getting a lot of mushrooms. I
no longer get them. Could this be indicative of fungus or disease?
Again, thank you so much for your help.
Mushrooms appearing in a lawn is a signal that something in the lawn has not finished decomposing. Mushrooms are decomposers. |
A. The mushrooms are from decomposing
woodchips, probably in the soil mix. It's not a huge problem and it doesn't
mean there is a disease going on. When the wood chips are exhausted, the
mushrooms will stop.
I would suggest about October 1 to rake
or lightly vertically mow, also called a dethatcher, and rough up the surface
of the soil. Seed a blend of tall fescue varieties at a rate of about 8 to 10
pounds per thousand square feet. Fertilize it and water it in. Then cover the
seed with a top dressing about one quarter of an inch deep using a manure
spreader. If it's cool enough, you could use steer manure and a spreader.
I think you're going to have to reseed or
re-sod the area and I think seeding is a better option for you. Your irrigation
times after the seed germinates I don't think you'll have a problem.
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