A. I can understand why HOA members (I'm assuming the board represents the members) would not like a polkadot pattern of woodchips with a background of rock mulch in their landscape. That is not my intent when I recommend woodchips used on the soil surface around some trees.
I would agree with your members that this
could look rather odd and decide to cover the area instead with one type of
mulch.
I would also argue that woodchips applied
to the soil surface beneath large trees and occupying 5 to 6 foot diameter is
defeating the basic purpose of using woodchips versus rock mulch. If woodchips
are used, they need to be applied to a much larger area under the trees than a
6 foot diameter circle. Their application is meant for soil improvement rather
than aesthetics. The type of mulch selected for landscapes makes a huge impact
on the general texture, "look" and aesthetics of a landscape.
I’m going to respond to your question in
increments. If this wood mulch is a "bark mulch" rather than a
"woodchip mulch" then its only contribution is aesthetics. Bark mulch
adds very little to soil improvement. Its use is almost 100% aesthetic. Using
bark mulch has its pluses and minuses but on the minus side it does very little
to improve the soil and so it is quite similar to rock mulch in that regard.
Large decorative bark mulch is used for aesthetics and not soil improvement. Photo courtesy Viragrow Inc. www.viragrow.com |
Woodchip mulch is very different from
bark mulch or rock mulch in that its primary use is long-term and its focus is
on soil improvement. It's very handy, and I would argue irreplaceable, for some
trees when changing a landscape from lawns to "desert", a.k.a. rock
mulch landscapes.
Now lets jump over to your list of
plants. The one tree on your list you will have problems with is the Japanese
Privet. This tree will be very tricky for it to look good in a landscape covered
in rock mulch. Actually, it may have trouble growing well even in woodchip
mulch because the problem is soil moisture rather than soil improvement.
In our desert climate, JP looks good in a lawn where the soil is moist continuously and small amounts of organics are added back to the soil each year. This happens just by having the lawn growing around it. When the lawn is removed, it starts to suffer. I would be surprised if it looks good even after the first couple of years in a rock mulch conversion from a lawn. This tree definitely will have trouble growing well in a rock landscape. Depending on which ash tree, this is another tree that may struggle growing in soil covered 100% by rock.
Japanese privet looking its best in a rock landscape. |
In our desert climate, JP looks good in a lawn where the soil is moist continuously and small amounts of organics are added back to the soil each year. This happens just by having the lawn growing around it. When the lawn is removed, it starts to suffer. I would be surprised if it looks good even after the first couple of years in a rock mulch conversion from a lawn. This tree definitely will have trouble growing well in a rock landscape. Depending on which ash tree, this is another tree that may struggle growing in soil covered 100% by rock.
I don’t think you will have serious
problems with pine or olive trees growing in soil covered by rock. They will
need fertilizer applications now that the lawn is gone. A suggestion, use a
very coarse rock (1 inch or larger) of the same color under these trees when
replacing the wood mulch. Then add compost underneath the canopies of these
trees growing in coarse rock mulch every one to two years and water it
in. If you use a “rich compost” such as Viragrow’s, you can skip annual
fertilizer applications and save a little bit of money.
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