A. Sounds like several possible problems going on with
your drip system. Let’s start with the easy ones first. Make sure your drip
irrigation system has a filter installed to prevent drip emitters from plugging
and a pressure regulator to prevent high water pressure from damaging the
emitters.
A
removable flush cap must be on each of the irrigation lines so that the system
can be “flushed” on a regular basis. This helps to prevent emitters from
plugging. I will talk more about this in a minute.
Some flush caps unscrew to release water. |
The most popular filter for residential use is the inexpensive screen filter. It is oftentimes a black canister installed close to the irrigation valve used for drip irrigation. It is normally installed immediately downstream of the valve in the same irrigation box.
The
screen inside the filter should be removed regularly and gently cleaned or
replaced if damaged. Clean the filter two or three times a year when using city
water, more often if you’re using well water. The dirtier the water, the more
often the filter needs to be cleaned.
Pressure regulators come in different static pressures and there are adjustable ones if you aren't sure of the pressure needed or it varies. |
Pressure
regulators prevent the water pressure from rising above the limits allowed for the
drip emitter to operate normally. They don’t increase water pressure if it is
too low. Match the pressure regulator to the pressure range recommended for correct
operation of the emitters. It’s more complicated with a large drip irrigation
system. In cases like these, use adjustable pressure regulators.
Flushing can involve the use of valves, screw caps or be as simple as this figure 8. |
Flush
caps or valves must terminate all drip irrigation lines that carry water. It is
important to “flush” these lines by opening the irrigation line when the system
is operating and let the water run until it comes out clean. Open each flush
cap sequentially for each drip irrigation line the same time the filter is
cleaned. Flush the line if repairs are done on the system that allows dirt to
enter that might plug emitters. The number one reason for failure of a drip
system is not flushing drip irrigation lines and cleaning the filters regularly
and after repairs.
Air release valve manufactured by Jain Irrigation. It is inserted directly into polyethylene drip tubing to exhaust air in the drip lines. Water forces it shut. |
Air release valves like this one from Netafim are also made to be screwed into PVC irrigation pipe as well. |
Air
release valves are an add-on to the drip system if trapped air is a problem or
takes a long time for the drip emitters to start dripping water. Air release
valves are inexpensive and exhaust trapped air in the system quickly before the
irrigation lines become fully pressurized with water. They are usually
installed at the end of a drip irrigation line or in combination with a flush
cap or flush valve.
Adjustable drip emitters are convenient because you can open or close the emitter to deliver more or less water. But they are not precise and are not pressure compensated. |
Adjustable
drip emitters are not “pressure compensated”. This means they deliver water at
variable amounts depending on the water pressure and their elevation relative to
other emitters. One reason I don’t like adjustable emitters is because of their
lack of precision; when one adjustable emitter is opened to allow a greater
flow of water, less water flows from the other emitters on the same line.
https://dripdepot.blogspot.com/2013/08/know-your-threads-drip-irrigation-parts.html?showComment=1565387826911#c6853359771674805070
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Great tips for efficient irrigation management. Troubleshooting problems with your system is also crucial: observe the throw of sprinkler heads while they're running--a long distance can be affected by wind patterns and change the intended coverage of the heads; evaluate the head-to-head spacing to determine gaps or areas of over-watering; check the controllers to ensure the timers are set properly; etc.
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