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Sunday, June 5, 2022

Correcting Lemon Mistakes Through Proper Pruning When Young

Q. Your Xtremehorticulture blog is an awesome source of information! I live in Phoenix and question why my ‘Lisbon’ lemon tree is failing after two years. It flowers in the early spring as it should, and produces fruit, albeit, its fruit is nasty and dry. The canopy is about 10% of what it should be, and I suspect sunburn has been choking the plant. I think the tree is a goner and thinking of removing it.

'Lisbon' lemon tree grown in Las Vegas and sun damage to the leaves.

A. Yes, I think your tree may be sunburned. Give it a chance still. At two years of age, you might be able to nurse it back to health if you follow some easy directions.

You live in the northern part of the Sonoran Desert. Las Vegas is in the eastern side of the Mojave Desert. All citrus including ‘Lisbon’ lemon are subtropical; this means the tree, unlike ‘Myers’ lemon, doesn’t survive freezing temperatures very long. And in your case our very strong desert sunlight. As the canopy increases in shade and size, giving more shade to the fruit and the tree itself, the fruit will improve. Guaranteed. Don’t let the fruit overripen before you pick it. That’s a no-no.

This citrus tree was limbed up too soon and the trunk may develop sunburn in hot locations.

You might be able to get away “limbing it up” like in the seaside and Mediterranean area of Portugal, where ‘Lisbon’ lemon probably originated, but it won’t work in the desert Southwest. Leave the tree shrub-like the first few years until it gets established and then slowly limb it up, making sure the trunk and limbs stay shaded, as it gets older.

Citrus with a full canopy but exposed fruit still developed sunburn in Arizona.

Make sure the soil has been amended at the time of planting. This is a subtropical fruit tree and requires more organic matter in the soil than we have in most of our desert soils. I would not surround this tree with rock or rock mulch on the surface of the soil. Instead, use a layer of 3 to 4 inches of wood chips keeping the wood chips away from the trunk the first few years of its life. As the wood chips on the soil surface decompose or rot in the presence of water, it will slowly add “organics” back to the soil. Rock doesn’t do that.

The last thing to consider is planting the tree on the north or east side of your landscape, or at least 3 or 4 feet away from a hot west facing or South facing wall. It may or may not need it but it can help the tree. All fruit trees need about eight hours of sunlight each day, but subtropical trees can do without the 120°F heat common in Phoenix. If they are in good health, they will withstand the desert heat.

1 comment:

  1. I have a 'Lisbon'. It is a true lemon introduced to the States via Australia. Both 'Lisbon' and 'Eureka' are common commercial lemons. It grows well in the Phoenix area if the right microclimate is provided. Johnathan Manning, the owner of Elgin Nursery in the Phoenix area, showed us his 'Lisbon' tree. It is a lemon tree, and it will get big. The good news is that it is cold hardy. The bad news is that it has nasty thorns. So hopefully, you have another exit than this window. Fire code in most cities does require you to have an emergency exit. It won't be fun if you must jump thru a thorny tree. Don't forget to check the root stock, since there are 3 commonly used rootstocks for citrus budding. Flying dragon will work in Yuma (sandy soil), AZ. But maybe not everywhere in Phoenix. If you are curious enough, UC Riverside lists 1,000+ citrus rootstocks on the web. Check them out for entertainment purposes:) I agree with what Bob Morris told you. Gardening is all about trial and error. Give it a go. If it doesn't work out nicely, join the Citrus Clinic organized by University of Arizona Cooperative Extension early next year and take the sample to the field day. I'm so jealous that you can grow citrus trees in Phoenix:) Picking up a citrus from the tree in the front yard is such a California/ Central Arizona life!

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