A. Two methods are used here to green up yellow leaves. It
has a lot to do with the chemistry of the soil, more specifically how alkaline
it is, whether it is an iron problem or not, and the type of chelate used in
the iron fertilizer. It can get hard to predict if it will work or not. You
will see later I will sometimes “shotgun” it if I am confident the yellowing is
due to iron and the problem can be corrected.
If I
have the time, I will start with a spray bottle of iron fertilizer to see if an
iron application will work or not. Spraying this liquid mixture on yellow
leaves will tell me if the yellowing is due to iron or not. But it takes about
24 hours to find out.
If the
leaves change to a darker green in 24 hours, then an iron fertilizer application
will work. Otherwise it’s a guessing game. For some people, 24 hours is too
long to wait for an answer.
Here’s where it can get tricky. If it is early enough in the year and the tree is still producing new leaves, I can apply an iron fertilizer to the soil, and it should work. If it is later in the growing season and the tree has, for the most part, stopped growing and preparing for next years growth, then the only thing that will work is spraying the leaves with a liquid iron fertilizer.
This is another iron fertilizer made from acidified mine tailings that contain iron. If the pH of a soil is low enough then iron will be available to the plant. |
If an
iron fertilizer is applied to the soil, then the choice of iron fertilizer to
use can become critical. If the soil is in rough shape and neglected, then use an
iron fertilizer containing the chelate EDDHA. I would, in fact, use that iron
chelate fertilizer whenever trees and shrubs are surrounded by rock. Because this
can be a guessing game, I only recommend iron fertilizers that contain the
EDDHA iron chelate. Its more expensive but I am more confident it will work
under most circumstances.
If the
soil is in good condition, then usually any iron fertilizer containing an iron
chelate should work. If you are price sensitive and always buy the least
expensive product then, because of the soil chemistry, your selection may or may
not work. I understand the reasoning, but it is a gamble. Sometimes you win,
sometimes you lose.
Iron sulfate staining grapes |
Iron sulfate staining concrete |
If you
see leaf yellowing about halfway through the year or later, then soil
applications wont usually work. You must spray the leaves with a liquid iron fertilizer
to cause the leaves to change from yellow to green. This can mean multiple
applications of an iron spray. Please read my directions on how to make liquid
iron applications to the leaves on my blog to improve your chances of success.
Iron fertilizer containing HEDTA chelate plus 3% water soluble nitrogen and potassium for foliar spraying. If the yellowing isn't due to iron, then the nitrogen will green it up. |
What to
do? I usually do both treatments, shotgun it, if there is a problem and I want
the best chance of success. Two applications can be cheap insurance. If
spraying works, it will cause the leaves to turn green overnight. Soil
applications might take up to a week to see a change in leaf color and then it
will be only in the new growth.
But
applying the right iron fertilizer before the leaves come out in late winter or
early spring can pay some dividends if you suspect leaf yellowing might occur.
Thanks for the very informative article. I'd purchased a 4 lb bag of Kerex from a local Nursery. I thought Kerex was totally water soluble? Just shows you I didn't do my research before hand. I did find a product called Sequestrene 138 Fe from a store called Petstrong. Price for a 5lb bag costs $80 with free shipping. They also sell off brands of Sprint 138. Like you said, you don't know where these materials are sourced? BASF is in Germany. My soil pH is over 8.0, the soil has a lot of calcium in it, it's just not that available to plants. We're also very close to underground salt deposits. As a matter of fact I live off a road called "Salt Mine" which should tell you a lot about the surrounding area.
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